Jump to content
SAU Community

Troubleshooting Gauges


Recommended Posts

My car's been sleeping in a paddock for about 18 months, and when it came back the oil temp and water temp gauges both are not working.

Now the checking for 12v power, earth and 12v lights stuff I can do, but I want to confirm how the sender wiring works.

The water temp gauge just taps into the ECU water temp sender. Am I correct assuming that the sender works by showing a resistance compared to earth? Am I also right saying if I measured voltage compared to a good 12v source it would show something like a couple of volts when cold and closer to 12v when hot (depending on the exact calibration of the sender)? If not, how can I get a basic indication that the sender is connected properly and sending a reading to the gauge?

Same question for the oil temp gauge but it has 2 wires to the sender. Will one be earth (from the gauge) and the other the return signal? If I measure the resistance between the 2 it would decrease as the oil gets hotter?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually I think the gtr workshop manual answers that question, in the water temp troubleshooting section it says to measure voltage between the sender output (ecu 28) and ground, and I should get:

20o = 3v

80o = 1v

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both will be NTC thermisters, or negative temperature co-efficient. Which basically means when it is cold, it will read a high resistance, and as the temperature rises, the resistance will drop. Easiest way to check these would be consulting the workshop manual for values dependent on temperature, and using a multimetre between earth and signal and reading the resistance. If the resistance drops and is within range, the sender isn't the issue. To check the gauge, either use a gauge tester, or earth the signal wire breifly and the gauge should move to hot. (as earthing it will give very little resistance to ground, simulating a hot reading)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Even though it is a sensor, not a sender (difference being 3 wires, not 2) it will still be changing resistance, only the ECU will be interpreting these values as a voltage, not a resistance, but the test should still be the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply, So i've continued playing around, and fitted the injector adaptors onto the injector, the fuel rail is not able to be mounted now as the injectors sit a bit further out. I suppose the point of the adaptors is so that the injector nozzle isn't so deep into the intake? I suppose 1mm extra on the o-ring would do it but still can't mount the rail onto the intake haha. Waiting on a reply from Aeroflow I'm sure there's something stupid that I'm missing...
    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
×
×
  • Create New...