Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i wouldnt be so sure about that mate, why do you think torque settings are spceified....

i actually was measuring with a micrometer today to see if the cams were bent at all (these are the ones i bought from BBenny) and it turns out that there is a very very small deviation on both cams of 0.09mm on the exahust cam and 0.06mm on the inlet cam. And i could just press slightly with my finger right in the middle and actually change it by 0.10mm. So you can imagine how much it would affect it if you tightend just one of the bolts too much.

The other interesting thing i found was that the lift in the inlet cam was actually 8.9mm not 8.5mm as seen on other threads. The exhaust cam was actually 8.5mm as previously described.

Not sure if I agree with that. If everything is set up correcly I would think the only affect of overtightening the bolts would be some local distortion of the cap and head. Wouldnt it have to be massively overtightened for this to occur?

i wouldnt be so sure about that mate, why do you think torque settings are spceified....

i actually was measuring with a micrometer today to see if the cams were bent at all (these are the ones i bought from BBenny) and it turns out that there is a very very small deviation on both cams of 0.09mm on the exahust cam and 0.06mm on the inlet cam. And i could just press slightly with my finger right in the middle and actually change it by 0.10mm. So you can imagine how much it would affect it if you tightend just one of the bolts too much.

The other interesting thing i found was that the lift in the inlet cam was actually 8.9mm not 8.5mm as seen on other threads. The exhaust cam was actually 8.5mm as previously described.

sorry i disgree.....It would make no diffrence....if you want to see if the cams are bent....you should be using a dial indicator

yea u have the r32 gtr cams ..they have more lift on the inlet side ..as per the tomei standard camshaft spec list ..http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html

edit: sorry my bad .. i'm sure that list said otherwise.. unless its been changed recently

Roy, when you did ur cam swap did you use a torque wrench and set it according to RB26 or RB20 specs?

Ill be trying the swap next w.end so we'll see how it goes...

Again, I will be following this thread with great interest as you swap out your cams as I am desperately wanting to know if its a go or a no go as I need to do my timing belt and thought I may aswell do it at the same time.

JK

I think there are a few things that you need to be sure of to attempt this, judging by everyones experience - correct me if I am wrong :(

1) - straight cams

2) - correct tensioing of the cam caps

3) - nice new'ish timing belt that won't slip, prefferably a new belt

From everyone's experience, if all that is right, then correct installation should be no problem

Mine are on hold, injectors and PFC are next, then exhaust manifold and cams, maybe headwork......... where to stop :P

For all those interested i have some R33 GTR cams arriving tommorrow and when i get a chance ill be putting those into my gts4. Not running std ecu through (have a link) but will let everyone know how i get on and if theres any probs (fingers crossed it works well )

I think the general thinking is they are all pretty much the same with minimal differances?

Sydneykid would be the best bet to answer this, as from memory he has seen cars with 32,33 and 34 GTR cams installed

Jaik:

"I" didn't install them, i had them installed by my mechanic. this is not something to play around with at home if you ask me...

and the car runs fine no hassles...

power increase was good top end but at that stage i had the stock cat-back exhaust on still.

Now that i have a 3" cat-back there is so much more midrange torque the cams have really shown their worth now. To use this as a benchmark, 0 - 160 i was 5 carlengths ahead of a manual tx5 turbo which had full exhaust, pod and headwork. and mine is an auto :cheers:

have fixed up a pinging problem i had (timing too far advanced) and keen to get it on the dyno at the next dyno day.

Waz.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...