Arp Head Stud Torque Questions

[iruvyouskyrine]

Hi all. Before anyone tells em to search, i have searched and have come up with so many different answers it's unbelievable.

> RB25 head going on to RB30 block.

> RB20/25 ARP 2000 head stud kit.

RB25 service manual states tightening in increments, loosening off to zero, then tightening to 25-34 NM and then angle tightening 90-100 degrees.

ARP kit says to install the studs hand tight into the block, put the head on and then lubricate the "stud threads, nuts and washers" with the provided assembly lubricant, then tightening the nuts in 3 equal steps to 108 NM.

Now i have a few questions about the procedure.

Are you supposed to put the assembly lube onto the stud thread before you put it into the block?

Do the studs really just get put into the block hand tight? (Some people use the a hex key and tighten the stud before putting the nut on, which makes sense to me)

I know this isn't *really* supposed to go in the forced induction section but as i am assembling the engine ATM i hope this will generate the quickest responses.

Thanks all.

[Ben C34]

The stud is just hand tight in the block.

It shouldn't be done up at all all as bottoming it out induces stress into the block.

Doesn't need lube but will help it to not rust.

The lube is to ensure the correct tension is applied to the head. head If the nut wasn't lubed a lot of of your torque is wasted by friction, so not being used for clamping.

Use arp torque settings. They make make the studs and the different pitch thread thread and material need a different torque to stock.

[scotty nm35]

Make sure you spray brake cleaner into the thread holes in the block, and then blow them out with compressed air, they need to be clean and clear of oil/coolant before you bottom the studs out in the block. The L19's had an allen key in the top, to tighten the studs in first. They don't need to be tight as Ben mentioned.

ARP torque settings and plenty of lube I agree with.

[Blackkers]

The torque settings are slightly different when using ARP studs. so forget the nissan handbook which says 104ish I think.

clean all threads, lube all threads. with the studs just spin them in with your fingers. if you feel any resistance before the stud is properly seated then remove it and clean it up

I found the handbook image with the nissan specs on it, ignore them but use the same pattern

edit: what ben said

Edited June 1, 2014 by Blackkers

[iruvyouskyrine]

Thanks guys. I knew about the sequencing and ensuring clean threads etc. it was just confirming that the studs are only hand tight in the block that had me stumped! In my mind something capable of withstanding 200,000psi isn't tightened hand tight haha (i know that torquing the nuts is what provide the appropriate clamping force btw)

So i will clean the threads in the block, apply assembly lube to studs, put them in hand tight, then just nip them up with an allen key before i torque everything to ARP specs.

Thanks guys.

[Blackkers]

sweet. When you get around to doing the external vct feed could you throw up some pictures? I'm going through essentially the same build except that my RB30 is still assembled on the floor of the garage haha

[iruvyouskyrine]

Pics are up in the RB30 section mate.

[GTSBoy]

Realistically, if it wasn't just so convenient to use threads to attach the studs to the block, you could just have them drop in with a quarter turn cam lock type thing like Ikea furniture for all that it takes to sit them in place -- if such an arrangement would be strong enough.

So hand tight is certainly enough.

[GTRPSI]

Also put the lube supplied on the upper threads (not in block), both sides of the washers and under the nuts.

In other words all contact points.