Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all. Before anyone tells em to search, i have searched and have come up with so many different answers it's unbelievable.

> RB25 head going on to RB30 block.

> RB20/25 ARP 2000 head stud kit.

RB25 service manual states tightening in increments, loosening off to zero, then tightening to 25-34 NM and then angle tightening 90-100 degrees.

ARP kit says to install the studs hand tight into the block, put the head on and then lubricate the "stud threads, nuts and washers" with the provided assembly lubricant, then tightening the nuts in 3 equal steps to 108 NM.

Now i have a few questions about the procedure.

Are you supposed to put the assembly lube onto the stud thread before you put it into the block?

Do the studs really just get put into the block hand tight? (Some people use the a hex key and tighten the stud before putting the nut on, which makes sense to me)

I know this isn't *really* supposed to go in the forced induction section but as i am assembling the engine ATM i hope this will generate the quickest responses.

Thanks all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443864-arp-head-stud-torque-questions/
Share on other sites

The stud is just hand tight in the block.

It shouldn't be done up at all all as bottoming it out induces stress into the block.

Doesn't need lube but will help it to not rust.

The lube is to ensure the correct tension is applied to the head. head If the nut wasn't lubed a lot of of your torque is wasted by friction, so not being used for clamping.

Use arp torque settings. They make make the studs and the different pitch thread thread and material need a different torque to stock.

Make sure you spray brake cleaner into the thread holes in the block, and then blow them out with compressed air, they need to be clean and clear of oil/coolant before you bottom the studs out in the block. The L19's had an allen key in the top, to tighten the studs in first. They don't need to be tight as Ben mentioned.

ARP torque settings and plenty of lube I agree with.

  • Like 1

The torque settings are slightly different when using ARP studs. so forget the nissan handbook which says 104ish I think.

clean all threads, lube all threads. with the studs just spin them in with your fingers. if you feel any resistance before the stud is properly seated then remove it and clean it up

I found the handbook image with the nissan specs on it, ignore them but use the same pattern

edit: what ben said

post-113447-0-06031000-1401611887_thumb.jpg

Edited by Blackkers

Thanks guys. I knew about the sequencing and ensuring clean threads etc. it was just confirming that the studs are only hand tight in the block that had me stumped! In my mind something capable of withstanding 200,000psi isn't tightened hand tight haha (i know that torquing the nuts is what provide the appropriate clamping force btw)

So i will clean the threads in the block, apply assembly lube to studs, put them in hand tight, then just nip them up with an allen key before i torque everything to ARP specs.

Thanks guys.

Realistically, if it wasn't just so convenient to use threads to attach the studs to the block, you could just have them drop in with a quarter turn cam lock type thing like Ikea furniture for all that it takes to sit them in place -- if such an arrangement would be strong enough.

So hand tight is certainly enough.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...