Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've got a 1996 r33 skylines series 2 purchased the car about 2 months ago now and nothing but grief from the start, coilpacks went so I changed to splitfires replaced plugs to iridiums, then it was running sweet for a while then my clutch went and now my current problem... When giving enough acceleration to boost, when spooling up you can hear this strong clicking sound coming from the engine bay, you can hear it very faintly on idle but really only when I'm boosting, if I lay off the boost you can hear the clicking very faintly but hardly noticeable, anyways I suspect it's definitely turbo related maybe the turbo is on the way out? Or maybe a gasket has completely worn or something is loose? I've had a look at a few things, first I thought it mite have been my aftermarket boost controller solenoid clicking so I removed that and still no fix, took the heat shield off the turbo and the dump pipe doesn't look in great shape and it only has 2 out of 4 bolts on it.. Turbo definitely isn't completely gone as I'm still making boost and haven't really seen much performance loss.. I was thinking maybe a damaged turbine blade but those things doin at like 14rpm so it would have shattered by now. Currently bidding on a turbo on eBay anyways to have one there if it is going to go.. But what's ur thoughts guys??

Specs: 1996 r33 series 2

Turbo tech boost controller

Pod filter

Hi fllow cam exhaust

Bov venting back to afm

And that's about it! Fairly stock

Thanks for the replies in advance guys much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443878-turbo-problem-r33-series-2/
Share on other sites

http://www.r33skylineproject.co.uk/project_blown_turbo_mani_gasket.htm

Looks like the link above with same story 2 studs missing... is it an easy job to replace studs and gasket seems easy enuff? undo bolts put new gasket in and tighten or am I missing something?

cheers dudes

I'd be looking at the exhaust manifold gasket, going from the symptoms you mention.

A tick, tick, tick type noise "usually" means just a single exhaust leak per power stroke whereas at the actual turbo gasket, the explosions have blended into a fairly solid blast of gas.

Remove the heat shields and have a good look at the junction between exhaust manifold and head.

Look for signs of carbon even sometimes a slight oil weep.

Don't forget each exhaust port has 2-bolts, very often the exhaust manifold studs snap off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
×
×
  • Create New...