Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys recently bought an R32 Gtr. I've wanted one of these beasts for a long long time and now I have one I've fallen in love, so I thought I'll keep a bit of a build diary on here!

It's a 1992 model with just over 71000kms on it at the moment with a recently rebuilt motor by phantom performance with 20 thou forged pistons. The motor has done around 750kms since the build.

Mods that came with the car include:

Forged pistons

N1 Turbos

Kei Office coilovers

Slotted rotors

Stainless steel manifold, dump and cat back

4 inch FMIC

OIl cooler

Hks boost controller

It's currently running 270 hp on waste gate pressure, I have big plans for this thing but over a slow period of time! A new computer is on the to do list first up I'm thinking a Power FC as they seem to be quite popular but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

post-104672-0-77065700-1401652489_thumb.jpg

post-104672-0-76642300-1401652579_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443887-r32-gtr-build-diary/
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Bit of an update, haven't had access to a computer so posting has been near impossible on an iphone 3GS XD

Have installed a Catco high flow cat, Splitfire coilpacks and a full HICAS delete kit. The lock bar had allowed for sooo much movement in the rear tie rods so they were toast!

Had a bit of a shopping spree at work with genuine parts including a full re-badge of the car and a brand new center air con vent!!

I then ran into an injector blasting off an o ring, so I had them all flow tested and re-built and found a half of them were on their way out. So an R34, rail, reg and injectors were the fix!

After fixing this I had the fun job of CV boots!! I love getting grease everywhere on a Saturday morning!

When I bought the car the bloke told me that the original twin BOV's were still installed but not "hooked up" this just sounded suspect to me and the THIRD BOV was the only working one, with vac lines running in front of the cam cover to T in with the FPR vac line... I really didn't like this so I went on a mission to get the twins hooked up for a more stealth look to find out they were BLITZ and were actually opening! So a quick delete of the third one plus a BLITZ overhaul was the go!

Please find the attached files as the add to post button doesn't seem to be working :S

I have now got some set plans for the car after fixing all the little things. Stage one of the list;

Link G4 ECU

Bosch 1000cc injectors

BPP fuel rail

Turbosmart Regulator

and a bit further down the track, some Work Emotion XD9's 17x9.5 +17 in Matte Grey.

PS has anyone had a problem with their Idle Air Control valve sticking?

post-104672-0-44702300-1419462166_thumb.jpg

post-104672-0-38404800-1419462186_thumb.jpg

post-104672-0-35549600-1419462206_thumb.jpg

post-104672-0-19222000-1419462738_thumb.jpg

post-104672-0-39677300-1419462847_thumb.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
    • Unless my sensor just died, was only a couple months old, I strongly believe it didn't. How can I test it? I never mentioned it being 20:1+?
×
×
  • Create New...