Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys i got my girlfriends sister and she thinks that the more you rev the car the better it is for it. becuase you should be working the engine?

ok she drives a lil honda civic.

most cars these days are not maid to be reving at 3000 rmp to 3500 rpm

now there is proberly nothing wrong with doing this

but doing this on every gear every day..

i see it as eventually not damaing the engine but wearing it out and the life of the einge will decreease..

no guys dont get me wrong we are talking about normal cars here

also applies to if you got a sports car eg skyline and rev the **** out of it every day your ganna tell me its ganna last as long as some one not reving it as much

Let me know what ya think fellas

Thanks =)

Cheers

I would think that every rev is doing you damage.

Every engine is made to rev.

My point, every time an engine runs it is wearing out. It is a simply case of friction. The faster an engine revs the hotter it runs the more friction that is created and the faster an engine will wear. You cant relly say that high revs are doing damage, thats what engines do, but it is wearing out quicker than if your didnt rev the engine hard.

Highly modified engines are designed to rev higher, they are designed to opperate more eficently at higher revs, but still the longevity of the motor is sacrificed. Look at F1 engines. One race and they need to be rebuilt.

Every rev is doing you dammage.

Simply, a motor that reves low or is not under much strain is going to last longer than an engine that is reved hard, eg. 250cc generator motor compared to a 250cc motor bike.

However, engines do need a good punt every now and then to circulate the oils and get rid of carbon and oil build up.

In other word I dont relly know what the hell im talking about but it sound good. You decide :)

Adam

Originally posted by Adz

I would think that every rev is doing you damage.

Every engine is made to rev.

My point, every time an engine runs it is wearing out. It is a simply case of friction. The faster an engine revs the hotter it runs the more friction that is created and the faster an engine will wear. You cant relly say that high revs are doing damage, thats what engines do, but it is wearing out quicker than if your didnt rev the engine hard.

Highly modified engines are designed to rev higher, they are designed to opperate more eficently at higher revs, but still the longevity of the motor is sacrificed. Look at F1 engines. One race and they need to be rebuilt.  

Every rev is doing you dammage.

Simply, a motor that reves low or is not under much strain is going to last longer than an engine that is reved hard, eg. 250cc generator motor compared to a 250cc motor bike.

However, engines do need a good punt every now and then to circulate the oils and get rid of carbon and oil build up.

In other word I dont relly know what the hell im talking about but it sound good. You decide :)  

Adam

lol at last comment... what uve said sounds logical to me... then again ive seen clay ppl with fluro snakes coming out their heads dancing around a warehouse in Altona...

*waves hand in jedi motion* u will remember nothing.

it worked on tv... :D

Originally posted by inark

lol at last comment... what uve said sounds logical to me... then again ive seen clay ppl with fluro snakes coming out their heads dancing around a warehouse in Altona...  

*waves hand in jedi motion* u will remember nothing.

it worked on tv... :)

*cough* hijack *cough*

DUDE!!! some crazy shiznit happens at the parties in altona! we were leaving one party and seen one of those big black eyed aliens with a hoody on.. omfg i have never been so paranoid on the way home.. it was one of the most WRONG things you should see when starting to feel seedy..

I thik Eric is onto something. It depends on how you treat it, that means how you maintain it as well as how you drive it.

A bit of a squirt now and then on a well maintained car is not really going to hurt it.

Thrashing the crap out of it with the oil level below the end of the dipstick is not going to be a good thing.

Taxis and interstate trucks do huge mileages, and get driven pretty hard as well. The driver, often, is not the owner. But they do get regular service though, and last a very long time between rebuilds.

The reason taxi engines last so long is that they rarely cool down. Cold starts are the worst enemy of any engine, and is the time when most of the damage is done.

It doesn't hurt to rev an engine every now and then. I put a L20ET into my 240Z in 1989, and never had to touch it (bar a couple of dead welsh plugs) since. And it got plenty of canings in its lifetime. Its being lined up to be transplanted into a R30 hatch, and it will have a RB20DET turbo hanging off the side, not that restrictive POS it come out of the factory with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...