I'm Sure This Has Been Been Up Somewhere Else But For The Life Of Me I Can't Get A Simple Answer

[dbking82]

ABS, is it removable on an R34 GTT without disassembling the whole vehicle, the car is only used on the track and the reason for wanting to remove the ABS is when I need to stop harder than usual the ABS kicks in and the car fails me. Main issues are in Go to Whoa events, unless in casually rolling at the finish line then the car roles past the stop line. The brakes and tyres are more than adequate to pull the car up, but the computer is failing. Thoughts...

[GTSBoy]

Welllllll, you'd need a non-ABS master cylinder, replumb all the brake lines to bypass the ABS system, Nistune the ECU (at the very least) to get around the fault codes and limp mode (and the traction control).

Doesn't sound like you would complete it in a weekend, put it that way.

[dbking82]

Eeek, oh wow, that's way more than I wanted to hear, where's the good old pull the ABS fuse? Nah much appreciated.

[GTSBoy]

You could try to pull the ABS fuse, but in R34s the fault codes associated with buggering up the ABS/TCS can cause problems with the ECU putting it into a sort of limp mode. May not happen at stock power levels, but has been seen to occur with engines running some boost.

Edited June 7, 2014 by GTSBoy

[dbking82]

Ok, will try giving it a bash, I run with the TCS off anyways and the ABS well I would prefer that off. Not quite a factory boost either, I'm running 15-16psi most days and it loves it.

[GTRPSI]

Forgive my ignorance.

Abs only kicks in when the wheel sensors pickup a wheel locking.

So you want to stop quicker, and you think you will do so with a locked wheel by going beyond the ABS threshold?

What am i missing?

Now i could understand if you were rally driving and wanted to have a wheel lock for weight and balance control reasons.......in those cases you need to be able to have a lock to slide when needed for weight and balance control but your grip driving, not sliding.

Anyone observing your vehicle under braking to see what the tyres are saying from the outside, are your tyres locking and unlocking?

If so look at your brake balance, pad compounds and tyres.

[XKLABA]

Forgive my ignorance.

Abs only kicks in when the wheel sensors pickup a wheel locking.

So you want to stop quicker, and you think you will do so with a locked wheel by going beyond the ABS threshold?

What am i missing?

Now i could understand if you were rally driving and wanted to have a wheel lock for weight and balance control reasons.......in those cases you need to be able to have a lock to slide when needed for weight and balance control but your grip driving, not sliding.

Anyone observing your vehicle under braking to see what the tyres are saying from the outside, are your tyres locking and unlocking?

If so look at your brake balance, pad compounds and tyres.

Yeah this, if the front brakes have been upgrade alot more then the back then the front will want to lock and send the ABS skits effectively reducing your braking power

I have just done the 6 piston AP with 355 discs up front and hard braking now sees the ABS activate a lot earlier, am waiting for pipe adapters to fit matching rear 4 pistons

What's you setup ?

[dbking82]

GTRPSI & XKLABA, I understand exactly where your coming from, from your perspective it would seem as though why would I want to try and brake harder than what seems capable and this is exactly where the answer also lies. It's what seems capable.... But the fact is I know I can brake harder and with more accuracy than what the ABS can, when the rears may be just starting to lock up the fronts still have more in them. I have had this issue on a previous vehicle and by disabling the ABS it could drive harder in the corners, brake later and most importantly brake harder. As for visually inspecting the vehicle while under heavy braking, this hasn't been done as the motorkhana events I have ran it in there were no persons permitted past the start line and none to the sides for safety reasons. As for the brake balance I'm not sure what your mean (brake bias setup)? The pads are Bendix Ultimate pads, callipers are stock 4 & 2 pot that have had a full reco done. Also running factory discs at the moment. In the next 12 months I will hopefully upgrade to AP 6 pots on front and 4 pots on the rear with a set of DBA 3000's or similar.

[GTSBoy]

The pads are Bendix Ultimate pads,

There's your problem. I find that having Ultimates at both ends leads to rear lockup. Put stock pads in the back or more bitey pads in the front.