Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I've noticed on eBay there's a few greddy 6 throttle body's intake plenum replicas on ebay, now the greddy is around the $1100 mark and the eBay jobs are around $300 to $500 but still boast of decent power gains. Has anyone brought a eBay special and noticed the gains with there rb26? Or had any troubles with them?Or is it best to stay with the original intake?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444211-ebay-plenum-for-rb26/
Share on other sites

Who's to say the Ebay one won't also?

Have you checked this theory by measuring the egt's in each runner, or are you just happy to quote old wives tales? Gibson didn't have any trouble with it afaik...

I'm just asking questions to find out if it's worth while or not. I'm no mechanic and trying to find these things out on google is hard if not to no answer at all. That's why I've tyres to the forum to hopefully find someone that has done this and that may help me out

People do all kinds of stupid things, that doesn't mean you should copy them... :P

I have seen 500kw through a factory setup, intercooler, plenum, manifolds, piping, airbox, fuel lines etc. If you are near that I would be more worried about the block splitting than the runner flow. Just run a fat mixture and cram some more boost in.

Just to help the OP, ive got a genuine Greddy and had a ebay/china copy side by side.

You had to look really hard to spot the differences, runners, diameters, everything identical, slight differences in casting lines...very slight.

Would come down to the quality of the alloy IMHO.

Ive met and spoken with a Chinese manufacturer that makes them, as he said to me with any part, supply me with the brand name original and ill copy it for a fraction of the price and you wont tell the difference.

And just to throw a spanner into the works, he was offering them to me for $US 80 dollars each 2-3 years ago, no wonder there are so many copies out there......

Would come down to the quality of the alloy IMHO.

This... And how it's actually made. You can have the same materials, same design (making a mould isn't hard) and still stuff it up by having the casting temperatures or cooling speed all wrong. End up with a brittle part of the product which will be the first to crack under a high load.

Personally, I wouldn't want anything potentially breaking off a scraggy bit of metal under high temp / pressure and going straight into my engine. So if you go for a cheap copy get it checked out with a scope and cleaned up before it goes near the car.

  • Like 1

I found a few forums searches off google saying that they lean number 6 , thought I'd ask before I finished my motor because it would be easier to change a manifold whilst it's out. I'm thinking I might buy the greddy/trust manifold for peice of mind

Re cylinder 6 - true. Although tuned around.

Stock plenum is awesome and you will have no issues so keep it. Don't waste your money on these for the RB26

In my opinion the best is the Nismo Plenum - max 2-4% improvement - EDITED: 1-2% power and 0.4% fuel saving - SUBJECTIVE. Yes I have one

At $1500-$2000 money is spent better elsewhere.

Topic covered heaps already

Edited by Sinista32
  • Like 1

I'm building my motor ATM to have around 450 to 500kw

I found a few forums searches off google saying that they lean number 6 , thought I'd ask before I finished my motor because it would be easier to change a manifold whilst it's out. I'm thinking I might buy the greddy/trust manifold for peice of mind

I see.

Well I'd double check with Racepace, just give them a call to confirm.

As I have said before, you can get decent power gains with the stock Inlet Plenum but how much to what point, I'd double check.

So yeah, don't go throwing your money on ebay parts.

I noticed your user name and that you had a R32 GTR, so im assuming your doing a RB30 bottom end?

If so, before you go any further, the Greddy plenum will hit your clutch master, there are work arounds, or a few ways to do it but if your only going to 500Kw you may as well stay with the factory item, it does still work well.

Yes 6 can lean out, or run leaner, quick cheap way is get your injectors flow tested and put the highest flowing one on number 6. ;)

Otherwise 6 EGT probes on the manifold will do the trick......as will getting the tuner to run injector 6 a little longer.

Edited by GTRPSI
  • Like 1

Yeah mate I'm halfway through building a 26/30. Can the stock manifold be port match to the head or is it already done from factory? Also is there threads on how to fix the greddy manifold with the clutch master cylinder touching?

There are a few threads, all with different suggestions/methods in the RB30 section.

From using spacers under the cross member to steering shaft spacers to cutting the bonnet, some even remove the clutch booster and use a different clutch slave with spacer.

We are doing the same build right now for our 26/30 R32 GTR.

Edit, Forgot to add, port matching always helps, all depends on how far you are going or are prepared to look at details.

Edited by GTRPSI
  • Like 1

I've had the 30 bottom end in my GTR before but I never went crazy on the head. My n1 pump let go so I'm spending abit more this time. But all I did was cut the inner braces out of the bonnet and tapped the floor up abit with a hammer near the low mount dumps for clearance. Everything else was sweet. Well I've got an aluminium die grinder bit so I better port match it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...