Converting To Haltech Platinum Pro Plug-In

[etang789]

I am going to convert from HKS F-Con V-Pro to Haltech Platinum PRO Plug-in for my 1999 GTR R34 V Spec

Trying to figure out the list of parts I needed to order from Haltech Online Store. Am I missing anything?

HT055006 - Platinum PRO Plug-in Nissan R34 (GTR ONLY) Skyline Kit

HT010104 - 3 Bar GM Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

HT010202 - Air Temp Sensor - Large Thread 3/8 NPT 18TPI

Haltech Boost Control Solenoid or GrimmSpeed Electronic Boost Control Solenoid

WBC1 - Single Channel CAN Wideband Controller Kit or Innovate MTX-L: Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge

Do I need the Haltech Part # HT040003 Expansion I/O Auxiliary Harness for Air Temp Sensor that will be installed at intercooler and the Boost Control Solenoid ?

Edited June 11, 2014 by etang789

[Mitchee]

The R34 GTR Pro Plugin has an internal MAP sensor which can read up to 22psi boost. Fitting a 3-bar map sensor will allow up to 30psi boost. Out of the box it can use the factory intake air temperature sensor as fitted to your RB26, or you can cut and extend the existing wiring from that sensor to a new sensor (can I recommend the 1/8NPT threaded sensors Haltech sells, they are compact and work great). If not, the additional sensor can be wired into one of the two available ATI inputs on the Aux port on the rear of the Haltech. The ECU comes with the required plug and pins to crimp onto your wiring.

The boost control solenoid can use the existing wiring already in the engine bay going to the stock solenoid. Cut and extend the wiring so it reaches your placement of the new solenoid as the factory position isnt ideal. Otherwise, again you can wire it separately.. One side of the boost solenoid to a DPO on the Aux port on the ECU, the other side to switched 12v (also found in the Aux port, theres a pinout diagram in the QuickStart guide that comes with the ECU, also in the ECU Manager software help pages)

The Haltech WBC1 CAN Wideband Unit communicates over CANBUS to the ECU, allowing the ECU to know real-time Wideband AFR readings from the included Bosch LSU sensor. It also communicates sensor health status, heater status and fault status, allowing the ECU to ignore the readings if they are bad, or the sensor is still heating up for example. A 3rd party wideband unit would be connected via an Analog 0-5v signal which is prone to failure, and lacks the intelligence of the CANBUS unit. You'll want the Dual-Sensor WBC2 kit if you've got twin-turbos.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

[etang789]

The R34 GTR Pro Plugin has an internal MAP sensor which can read up to 22psi boost. Fitting a 3-bar map sensor will allow up to 30psi boost. Out of the box it can use the factory intake air temperature sensor as fitted to your RB26, or you can cut and extend the existing wiring from that sensor to a new sensor (can I recommend the 1/8NPT threaded sensors Haltech sells, they are compact and work great). If not, the additional sensor can be wired into one of the two available ATI inputs on the Aux port on the rear of the Haltech. The ECU comes with the required plug and pins to crimp onto your wiring.

The boost control solenoid can use the existing wiring already in the engine bay going to the stock solenoid. Cut and extend the wiring so it reaches your placement of the new solenoid as the factory position isnt ideal. Otherwise, again you can wire it separately.. One side of the boost solenoid to a DPO on the Aux port on the ECU, the other side to switched 12v (also found in the Aux port, theres a pinout diagram in the QuickStart guide that comes with the ECU, also in the ECU Manager software help pages)

The Haltech WBC1 CAN Wideband Unit communicates over CANBUS to the ECU, allowing the ECU to know real-time Wideband AFR readings from the included Bosch LSU sensor. It also communicates sensor health status, heater status and fault status, allowing the ECU to ignore the readings if they are bad, or the sensor is still heating up for example. A 3rd party wideband unit would be connected via an Analog 0-5v signal which is prone to failure, and lacks the intelligence of the CANBUS unit. You'll want the Dual-Sensor WBC2 kit if you've got twin-turbos.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

Thanks for the quick reply

So that means I have to buy the Expansion I/O Auxiliary Harness.

I have twin turbo here, but I dont think there is much space before the turbo outlet joins. Because the dual wideband sensor are required to installed about 1 meter away from the turbo itself.

[etang789]

The R34 GTR Pro Plugin has an internal MAP sensor which can read up to 22psi boost. Fitting a 3-bar map sensor will allow up to 30psi boost. Out of the box it can use the factory intake air temperature sensor as fitted to your RB26, or you can cut and extend the existing wiring from that sensor to a new sensor (can I recommend the 1/8NPT threaded sensors Haltech sells, they are compact and work great). If not, the additional sensor can be wired into one of the two available ATI inputs on the Aux port on the rear of the Haltech. The ECU comes with the required plug and pins to crimp onto your wiring.

The boost control solenoid can use the existing wiring already in the engine bay going to the stock solenoid. Cut and extend the wiring so it reaches your placement of the new solenoid as the factory position isnt ideal. Otherwise, again you can wire it separately.. One side of the boost solenoid to a DPO on the Aux port on the ECU, the other side to switched 12v (also found in the Aux port, theres a pinout diagram in the QuickStart guide that comes with the ECU, also in the ECU Manager software help pages)

The Haltech WBC1 CAN Wideband Unit communicates over CANBUS to the ECU, allowing the ECU to know real-time Wideband AFR readings from the included Bosch LSU sensor. It also communicates sensor health status, heater status and fault status, allowing the ECU to ignore the readings if they are bad, or the sensor is still heating up for example. A 3rd party wideband unit would be connected via an Analog 0-5v signal which is prone to failure, and lacks the intelligence of the CANBUS unit. You'll want the Dual-Sensor WBC2 kit if you've got twin-turbos.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

bump for help!

Where would you install the MAP sensor? Like the Apexi installation and drill at Cylinders #3 and #4 ?

[scotty nm35]

You are going to need more than that to stop the map signal oscillation, I would join all the throttles with thin hose, then run it to a small chamber to dampen the pulses.

At least the Haltech has the ability to filter this to some extent.

[etang789]

You are going to need more than that to stop the map signal oscillation, I would join all the throttles with thin hose, then run it to a small chamber to dampen the pulses.

At least the Haltech has the ability to filter this to some extent.

So I should tap in the Balance Chamber? But I still uses the stock PCV valve, then where should I tap for MAP signal?

[sinistaGTR]

use 3 and 4 as per the apexi....

What boost are you running. Most likely all you will need is the Haltech platinum pro, the can widebands and that will do

[sinistaGTR]

Can your tuner tune the haltech?????

[KiwiRS4T]

Should be able to use a Mac Valve for your boost solenoid. A lot of boost solenoids are just rebadged Mac valves.

[discopotato03]

What Scotty is saying is to run six small tubes , one from each runner , into a small volume collector so that you get a more consistent manifold pressure reference signal .

You are basically mimicking what you have with a single throttle/plenum chamber inlet system but in small scale to get a usable - for the computer - pressure reference signal .

A .

[scotty nm35]

What Scotty is saying is to run six small tubes , one from each runner , into a small volume collector so that you get a more consistent manifold pressure reference signal .

You are basically mimicking what you have with a single throttle/plenum chamber inlet system but in small scale to get a usable - for the computer - pressure reference signal .

A .

After chasing MAP faults on many cars, I now realise how important a smooth MAP signal is. Some sensors are more accurate (or faster) than others, which can make matters worse as the signal jumps all over the place, this can make your ecu drop into different cells constantly.

Where you tap the source from is critical, and anything you can do to smooth the pressure waves before the sensor will help the tuner no end. Even moving the map source around in a single plenum changes it's signal a fair bit. Furthest from the valves is best, but you don't get much choice on the 26, which is why I suggested a chamber.

[etang789]

After chasing MAP faults on many cars, I now realise how important a smooth MAP signal is. Some sensors are more accurate (or faster) than others, which can make matters worse as the signal jumps all over the place, this can make your ecu drop into different cells constantly.

Where you tap the source from is critical, and anything you can do to smooth the pressure waves before the sensor will help the tuner no end. Even moving the map source around in a single plenum changes it's signal a fair bit. Furthest from the valves is best, but you don't get much choice on the 26, which is why I suggested a chamber.

So use something like this?

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=78_90

[GTSBoy]

Way back in the way backs (like last century) I participated in putting Motec onto an Alfa 2 litre. We drilled small tapping holes into the bottom of each runner and connected them via short ~4mm hoses to a ~1" diameter pipe that ran along under the 4 inlets. That size small bore tube passed the signal well, and because they were all short in length they didn't add random amounts of pneumatic delay to their pulses into the log. The log was big enough to smooth out the pressure fluctuations from 4 cylinders but not so big that id ruined the responsiveness of the pressure signal in there compared to what the engine was doing. We could probably have used a 1/2" diameter pipe as the common MAP plenum but this thing had fairly big cams and made almost no vacuum at idle. We had to give it more volume to smooth it out as much as possible.

The above pictured manifold block would probably work for a milder setup. You'd want to hang it under 3&4 and keep all the 6 lines to the 6 inlets as even in length as possible (and still as short as possible). If it wasn't smooth enough you could always add an extra volume on to the blanked off end port.

Oh...with ITB setups there is also a small concern about which way the throttle butterflies turn. If the throttles open in such as way that the flow is directed onto the tapping ports in the bottom of the runner, then you can get crazy changes in MAP signal as the air flow stagnates (turns velocity into static pressure) in the port openings. This can be a massive headf**k. It's OK if the throttles aim it that way so long as the tapping points are far enough downstream to not get the flow pointed directly onto them.

Edited August 14, 2014 by GTSBoy

[scotty nm35]

So use something like this?

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=78_90

As said, you may need to play around with the volume to get a smooth signal, as averaging it with software will probably cause a delay in response similar to having a large volume.

I make these manifolds myself using brass fittings and an offcut of alloy plate.

[XKLABA]

I tapped in to the boost gauge signal hose and run to a map sensor on fire wall, no tuning issues

Maybe the Syvecs is less susceptible to pressure fluctuations

[etang789]

Finally ordered the Haltech parts! Cannot wait until it gets here and have it tuned!

[kaneryan]

hey dude if your having dramas, ring trent from mercury motorsport. i purchased all my haltech gear through him, told hime what setup i wanted and he sorted me out with exactly what i needed. food for thought.

[etang789]

Ok I finally got time to install the Haltech but I have ran into a few problems.

Previous install of the HKS F-Con V-Pro has hacked up the stock ECU wiring, there are a few wires that I am not sure what it does.

There is this Purple/Black wire 5th wire from the right of the HKS piggyback harness was cut and jam into a Black wire that runs all the way to the back of the car. Would you guys know what this is?

The stock wiring seems to be cut and reconnected with random wires.

Some quick help here would be great guys! Heres the pic with all the ECU together!

Edited July 1, 2015 by etang789

[etang789]

Bump for help!

[scotty nm35]

Fuel pump trigger? No idea, just wondering what the stock ecu signals go to the back...

If you can't find the original wiring diagram, I wouldn't start that kind of job.