Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As much as a nistune can be fitted it is a mission into a R34, their is a thread all about doing it if you search for it ( OP, not Ben I know he knows all about it :D )

I would use the PFC for a street GTR that doesnt want Flex Fuel any day, the only problem with the PFC is as much as most every tuner can tune them, very few know how to do it properly/fully, I have a PFC in my R32 and have done so for 7 years and it drives better then it ever did with a stock computer, though it didn't when it was first fitted and tuned but then I found Scott and it has been brilliant ever since and given how fast my 32 is given its power output proves it

My 34 had a PFC in it when I bought it and it drove quiet well then I let Scott at it and again became perfect to drive and if it supported Flex Fuel it would most likely still be in there

This is my opinion, blast me all you like for it it won't change what I have seen for my self and how I feel about it, I like the PFCs and when tuned properly do exactly as they are asked with no fuss

Depends what you want to do, or how far you want to go.

Does a normal power FC have launch control, antilag, ability to run on a MAP sensor, spark cut RPM limiter and the ability to simply add extra devices through expansion ports. (not talking Jetro or Pro series Power FC)

None of which should be needed on a normal street tune GTR....but needed if your getting serious or you have $ tied into your engine.

We went with the Haltech Platinum Pro because it opens a range of future possibilities, even something as simple as the race dash pays for its self, no need for expensive gauges and mounting, warning high low limits can be set on a wide variety of things your monitoring or worried about.

Having said all that, Power FC covers what most people need day to day, good thing is they are getting cheap because newer ECU's which are in demand like the Haltech, i wouldn't hesitate to run a Power FC on a mildly worked daily driver.

  • 1 month later...

15+yo PFC or a brand new, current tech haltch that's been designed/built/developed in Aus and is very flexible?

as for just the tuning? better resolution, more options to offset timing and fuel trim etc. Same same for any competent tuner to 'use' or 'tune'.

The one thing that I would have liked in my PS2000 was knock correction, but the plug in (my pick for your application) does have knock correction.

J.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

My motor rb30/26 + t78 turbo

Wat difference will I see when using haltech platinum pro compare to power fc ?

Thx

Hope the RB30/26 setup you have with the T78 works better than my T78 worked for me on the street, it was a pig to drive as a DD and did nothing until 5000rpm

I had a worked Rb26 motor, forged pistons etc. From what was said to me, it is hard to get the T78 to come on full boost before 5000rpm, mine was later , at about 5500-6000 for full boost and rip your head off.

Maybe it was the tune, I am new to this but everything I have read so far indicated that they get full boost no earlier than 5k with an RB26 motor.

I put a PT6262 and poncams B and it was a different car tuned by the same bloke??

Maybe everyone has a different idea of lag, but mine was SO LAGGY and with the quad clutch a sh@t to drive, full load and steep hill take off, it was hell on wheels.

I do not mean doing a 6-8000rpm launch, maybe the clutch had a lot to do with it???????

Sorry off topic

  • 4 weeks later...

i owned a PFC with -5s and now changed to a Haltech with a HKS T51r yes both different turbo setups but changing from the PFC to Haltech everything seems alot smoother with the Haltech!
i do agree with the above every tuner pretty much knows how to tune Power FC but i also agree with XRATED they are designed, newer technology and you have everything there ready to go if you decide to change for a track setup or E85 or Flex tune. it also allows you to use alot of add ons as also mentions above. but to that is double the price of the PFC but, i found the PFC to feel very strange when it was cold, i cant quite describe the feelling but you can definatly notice the difference with the 2. as for a tuning perspective i dont know which one is "nicer" to tune, but thats for your tuner to work out. also choose a computer your tuner feels most comfortable to tune,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...