Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Be very patient, take your time, have plenty of WD40 or CRC for all threads.|
Anti-seize everything when you put it back together, and make sure the oil feed line is tight BEFORE you get everything back in.

Do you have access to a hoist?

Apart from the truth posted above, the following will be helpful / necessary.

  • patience
  • breaker bar with an assortment of extension bars & two uni joints (to get to top nut of dump pipe).
  • drop exhaust then 4 bolts on g'box cross member. This will lower back of engine enough to get to bolts that would otherwise look impossible.
  • you'll need a big arse spanner for the EGO sensor. I can't remember the size atm, but mine got so rounded I bought every variation I could before getting it out, & for me this was close to being the end of the project the first time.
  • May need a 'special' tool to remove a heat shield fastener or two. A cut down socket welded to a piece of flat steel bar did the trick for me. (I can post you mine if you want)
  • Also consider sticking heat shield to the body while everything is out.

Hoist would be nice but I've done it (twice) just on ramps & axle stands. My son even wrote a DIY for a school project. I should try & track it down, lol.

  • Like 1

^ best advices!

A uni socket is very helpful with everything, o2 sensor on dump is 22mm but you may have to try a shortish shifter and pray it doesn't round if you can't get the 22 spanner to squeeze in.

Swivel head 3/8 ratchet and swivel ratchet spanners also make it easier if you can borrow some off someone

Edited by DaveM35

Those ^ ratchet spanners would have been very helpful. I should have mentioned my tool chest was full of spanners fashioned from tree branches & spotted tree frog legs. If my car had been put together 'finger tight' I'd have been sweet.

I guess my point is, you don't need heaps of tools, or even top notch ones, to get the job done. (but it does help)

  • Like 1

awesome i have access to great tools and i have a engine hoists and axle stands and the rest and hopefully my father has seen my struggle and he is looking at going halves with me in a scissor lift hoist in the next few weeks so i am thankfull that he has a love of cars also. It is times like this i wish it was a RB and Commsman if you found the diy would be fantastic, thank you for your help guys as always this community is helpfull and not scared to share info

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...