Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how much power are you making and at what boost and base fuel pressure?

i'm maxing out mine but big injectors help as fuel pressure drops in the top end.

making around 300rwkw on 20psi but I can't be sure as the car was wheelspinning like crazy on the dyno

im at about 270 at 16 psi.

Cant remember base fuel pressure, but wot it was about 60psi ( if i remember correctly)

i have 1000cc injectors atm.

It cant hurt to put another one in right?

Ill run it off another 12v line to a relay, and have a y pipe connecting to 2 intank.

base pressure sounds factory. 3Bar or 43.5psi.

well, you don't really need one, and 1000cc injectors are more than big enough to compensate if the pressure drops slightly and at 16psi it probably wont. Any tuner will be able to do this.

Personally I wouldn't install the 2nd pump but it sounds like you're going to do it anyway

keep in mind you need to supply around 16-20A of current at 60psi fuel pressure with 2 of those pumps

Edited by Blackkers

More likely your fuel filter is restricting flow, unless there is something wrong with your pump install...

Does it have full 14v and e85 compatible submersible hose in the tank? Have you checked the terminals on the pump lid are clean and corrosion free, and not melting?

Just buy a genuine 460lph walbro and be done

Thats the thing...i did..

I dont want to name who i got it from, but it was a dud.

I dont want the messing around replacing it...

And i dont want another dud lol....

But, i guess ill have to..Kudos Motorsport i guess ill get it from this time?

Edited by jay-rod

The problem is there is a restriction inside the ryco style filters, not that is was dirty. (unless you tried some kind of highflow stainless mesh filter) I have seen that exact fault many times and most suspect the pump or injectors are the problem. If you had simply bypassed the Ryco it would have proved it in 1 dyno run.

As far as I know there are no knockoff Walbro 416 pumps, but some are the original petrol variant. These are cheaper but will fail quickly on e85. If this is what you bought, and it doesn't have the sealed power connector, it could explain what happened.

he did do a run without a filter Scott ...

went through 2 filters just incase, also did a dyno run without a filter...same thing.

Direct feed from battery to a relay, stock nissan hose intank, works well with e85.

As soon as i put the 255 back in...works fine..

Also I only ever used a ryco filter, had no worries....maybe my pump was a little better, but a 255 should keep up alright if its wired up properly..You checked voltage at pump?

Oh, didn't read that. :/

These are very basic pumps, unless they have had water through them they are very robust and hard to block. Can you post a pic of it if you have one?

I just cut an e85 walbro apart today, very interesting inside due to being a turbine only pump. No wonder they are so quiet... I should post some pics in here.

reg or whats the wiring like to the pump, have you used a thicker gauge wire..?

my money is on its not getting enough power...

Lets say the 255 is getting just enough power , then the 460 would die in the ass with that same power..

would explain both your problems..

It was a couple of months ago now, so hard to recall

But im pretty sure it went like this.

Idle pressure was fine, wot it would build to ~55-60 psi then drop back down to ~45-50 at full boost /16psi around 3800 -4000 rpm

Put the 255 back in and it held a steady ~60-65 psi ( my numbers could be off, but you get the general idea )

EDIT

Could it be my wiring is the problem?

I used to have amp/subs in the back, which i no longer have, so i used the same Amp wire ( 4awg i think ) to my relay.
Do you think the large gauge wire could be to low resistance? Bare in mind its many fine strands inside the 4awg, not thick wire.

Edited by jay-rod

Bigger wiring the better, and I always solder the connectors. The main problem is the thin wires at the plug on the tank, and the undersized plug pins. They need to be clean or they can melt causing similar symptoms.

Here is the Wally, not much to see, but you can easily see the rust from excess moisture. This pump was seized, drawing 30 amps, so keep your fuse at 25A.

post-63525-0-01920100-1402924388_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
×
×
  • Create New...