Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have the kando highflow (20g compressor, garrett stage 3 turbine wheel), and it's laggy for a lot of people.

Not a proper dyno that's why I didn't posted it on the RB20 dyno thread but it shows how the turbo behave :

S13+RB20DET+-+2014.06.07+-+15.31.46.png

For those who are not familiar with those units :

261 kW/294 ft/lbs.

Supposedly at the crankshaft, with the SAE J1349 correction factor.

This is a smartphone App that turn your car into an inertial dyno, precision is said to be accurate if set correctly. I've done my best to set the app the best I could but take those numbers with a grain of salt.

VCT enabled SR20dets are surprisingly good, the ATR28SS2's managed to pull 275rwkws with 20psi by 4000RPMs on a customer's car yesterday.

The SS1x series are made for Rb20dets, the power delivery on those are more linear down low. and has the capacity to pull some good top end internally gated, as a factory bolton turbocharger.

We build SS1.5 billet fronted TD05 turbos also, those will out perform traditional 18G, at similar pricing levels. Those are best externally gated.

SR are awesome engines when it comes to spool turbo's.

A friend of mine have an HX35w on his forged SR20, with the VTC he sees 15 psi by 3800 rpm, VTC OFF he has to wait 5000 rpm to get the same boost.

This ability plus the torque off boost the SR has makes it an awesome engine.

It just sound like shit on boost, ping very easily on pump gas, heat heavily it's oil with factory oil cooler and doesn't like the revs with a standard head.

I hate working on one of them. It's just as everything has carefully been designed to irritate you. And a lot of bolt love to break the second you want to unscrew them.

In NA form they also perform quite well despite their head, sounds beautiful with cams and are almost unbreakable.

I have a HKS GTRS looking for a home if interested . It got me 271 at the wheels on E70 on a 33 25T engine .

Somewhere back in the mists Roy spoke about RB20s with these turbo's on them and I don't think the result was bad though I can't quote numbers .

The advantage with these turbos is they just about fall onto an RB20 or 25 like std dump standard mount flange and standard inlet hose .

I can't remember what revs these wake up at on an RB20 but I think it would be doing something under 4000 . Garrett sells cartridges for them if it got tired down the track .

I don't have water and oil lines but they aren't hard to organise , cheers Adrian .

There's an old thread here "Hks Gtrs RB20" from 2008 about a fella that was getting 18 pounds of boost from his engine at around 4100 revs .

In those days people seemed to like HKS 2530s and 2535s on RB20s .

If you want to spend money Garrett has updated their GT28 BB range with GTX compressors so a GTX2860R or GTX2863R should give you a lighter more efficient compressor wheel than the GT series ones .

A .

thanks guys.i bought the kinugawa td05 18g 8cm.I also picked up some denso 700cc injectors,nistuned ecu and some hks 264 9.0mm cams so when its up and running ill post some figures...

have a look around for some 4.4:1 gears.... rb20's love to rev, so depending on what your using the car for, the extra ratio is handy to get the car moving (essentially masks some of the added lag).

Cheers

J.

  • 2 weeks later...

The best idea.

I just did it on my S13. Went from 3.916 to 4.363.

The car is way much better now, with still way too much top speed and an average cruising comfort.

With the previous diff the freeway was nicer with 300/400rpm less but as soon as the road was uphill or cruising at 90 km/h the car wouldn't accelerate in 5th gear and was barely pulling in 4th. I had to reckless drive it to get any acceleration and when the torque was there cops were the main problem because of the vastly illegal speed.

When it was ON, it was ON but I had to wait for it way too long.

With the 4.363 the car is much nicer to drive, pulls ok in 5th from 3000rpm and can manage a 270+kph.

The fuel consumption doesn't seem to have suffered from this change so far. So very happy of the change for now.

For a dedicated track car an even shorter final drive ratio wouldn't hurt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
    • Did this ever go further ? Would love some updated info 
×
×
  • Create New...