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Preparing For Boost Controller Install

killeran

By killeran,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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killeran Contributor

killeran

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I'm pretty set on getting a boost controller (might even go out and get one today actually- it's my Birthday after all :cheers: )

As I would still consider myself a pretty massive noob with turbo engines I just wanted a bit of clarification on the vacuum lines I'm connecting up.

I drive an S2 Stagea with an RB25 Neo engine, as I understand it, the solenoid valve hooks up to the vacuum lines in "A.". Is this correct?

I'm also running a Blitz blow-off valve ("B."). Will this effect my final result/change the install process, or is this all sweet?

EBCinstall_zpsb6748327.jpg

If I'm feeling confident I'll document the process and do up a picture-based how-to for it, but we'll see :rolleyes:

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Firstly, piss off the blow-off valve. They are bad. Revert it to stock blow-off and save yourself some pain.

Secondly, yes that is the stock solenoid. One hose comes from the compressor outlet, the other hose goes to the wastegate actuator. You simply hook those up to your boost controller's new solenoid as per whatever its installation drawing says.

You will also need to take a boost line from the plenum to make the controller work. The best place to do this is at the factory MAP sensor hose over on the driver's side of the brake booster. Just tee into it with a 4mm T and some silicone hose (which would probably come with the boost controller anyway. Feed the hose through the inner guard and A pillar opening into the driver's side footwell along with the couple of small wiring harnesses. (Unless the pressure sensor for the new boost controller is separate to the main unit, in which case just route the wire back through there.) The solenoid wiring harness should go through the opening on the opposite side of the car with the engine loom to the ECU. It's tough to get new stuff through these paths, but worth it. Be careful so you don't punch holes in any of the looms though!

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Forget all of the factory boost control lines and solenoids and pull them out

Plumb the ebc as per the instructions that come with it.

Done.

Edit.

Beaten with more info!

And I forgot to say get rid of atmospheric bov.

Edited by Ben C34
killeran Contributor

killeran

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge guys, I appreciate it.

Now are we not fans of the bov due to wank factor/legalities, or because it will interrupt this install?

I bought the car with it already hooked up.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Atmo venting BOVs interfere with the correct operation of the Air Flow Meter and therefore the ECU, leading to stalling, rich farts and shit drivability and gain absolutely nothing into the bargain.

The factory BOV is not really a BOV. It is a compressor bypass valve, designed to be open during vacuum operation, allowing induction air to travel around the compressor, hence unloading it and allowing it to build boost more rapidly when you try to accelerate. it probably also reduces cruise fuel consumption by 0.3% or some such number that would have made the marketing department happy.

Also wank factor and illegality are other very good reasons to not have atmo BOVs.

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