Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello i have a problem with my rb25de neo. It's and auto but i genrally use the semi auto the drive but the problem is that after i get up to 3000rpm. In second gear then change to third and will have a spot where it drops right back down to like 2500 and after a second it picks back up again.To where it should be and it's 5 times as worse if the aircon is running and it will happen even if you change at 2000 rpm. Im totaly stuffed about it i got cam cover gaskets and new spark plugs recently.I thought i would ask on here first before i get my mech to look at it maybe a simple fix?.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444597-flat-spots-in-rb25de-neo/
Share on other sites

Had the same problem a few months ago

Took the intake pipes and vac lines off so the coilpacks could be changed, forgot to tighten up the clamps for the vac lines and they popped off/weren't sealed properly

I think I may still have failed one of the plugs when this happened as I can still feel a very slight miss around the 3k mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection  Post wool tuft pics and data for science  This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy
    • It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.
    • It’s almost the price of an engine build, you won’t have anything to bolt onto it though 
    • Hopefully it's enough to help with the temps! I was also only shit stirring, regarding Murphy's Law basically. I've found, what ever spare parts I have, are the parts I don't break. Ever. Also have never had issues with oil/spinning bearings until I put oil pressure gauges on the car. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...