Jump to content
SAU Community

Re-Building A Front Lip

nicr4wks

By nicr4wks,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

nicr4wks Experienced

nicr4wks

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

For the last 2 years I've been looking around for an R33 s2 mspec front lip, about a year a go I bought a front bar that had been in an accident with ~60% of the lip intact, it's missing a section that wraps around the passenger side. I'd like to have a crack at repairing the current lip or replicating a whole new one, where should I start? I've never done fiberglassing or molding.

I assume taking a mold of the drivers side would be required, then somehow 'flip' it so it's a mirror image for the passenger side? I'm not sure how I would go about that.

post-63773-0-56476700-1403136152_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444625-re-building-a-front-lip/
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

You can actually ^ Not to make a mould, but given that piece of the lip is symmetrical, one can take a skin of the one side and flip it around to fit the other side. Works for things that are symmetrical and don't taper in a certain direction.

If you haven't done fibreglassing before then I'd advise playing around with it before attempting to fix your bumper. You might be better off trying to find another one, but have a play with some fibreglass and resin and see how you go. That said, this isn't the hardest of repairs. Nor is it easy to explain. One way to do it would be to cover the drivers side of the lip with clear packing tape (make sure it's the polythylene stuff), then use EPOXY (polyester shrinks and the styrene will attack your paint if it is exposed, nasty stuff) and woven fibreglass cloth to make a skin of each individual bit. Break it down into the bits that you can flip and fit into place on the passenger side. I'd estimate it is likely to be 3 pieces, the inner piece on the left that is partially cracked, the piece that runs along the bottom edge of the bumper, and the piece the sits on the side of the bumper. Get me? Then you can cut the lip off where it is cracked so it is square, and bond on your new pieces. Then feather them in using body filler, before spraying high build primer to fill the final low spots. Easy right?

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

There are quite alot of complex shapes there to flip im not sure it would be of benefit using a flip method...

Id say just get a better one, there is a heap there to recreate especially if you havnt done it before

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Yes but you don't have to copy all of them. Just the ones that work, to give you a profile. Then you can fill the rest.

It's not the easiest job, but it's not super hard either. For a production item like this it's always going to be better to find another one though, unless you want to make it in carbon fibre ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PLYNX
      Short shifter r34

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • robbo_rb180
      Short shifter r34

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • drifter17a
      Short shifter r34

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • GTSBoy
      R34 oil and timing belt change

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...