Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

For the last 2 years I've been looking around for an R33 s2 mspec front lip, about a year a go I bought a front bar that had been in an accident with ~60% of the lip intact, it's missing a section that wraps around the passenger side. I'd like to have a crack at repairing the current lip or replicating a whole new one, where should I start? I've never done fiberglassing or molding.

I assume taking a mold of the drivers side would be required, then somehow 'flip' it so it's a mirror image for the passenger side? I'm not sure how I would go about that.

post-63773-0-56476700-1403136152_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444625-re-building-a-front-lip/
Share on other sites

You can actually ^ Not to make a mould, but given that piece of the lip is symmetrical, one can take a skin of the one side and flip it around to fit the other side. Works for things that are symmetrical and don't taper in a certain direction.

If you haven't done fibreglassing before then I'd advise playing around with it before attempting to fix your bumper. You might be better off trying to find another one, but have a play with some fibreglass and resin and see how you go. That said, this isn't the hardest of repairs. Nor is it easy to explain. One way to do it would be to cover the drivers side of the lip with clear packing tape (make sure it's the polythylene stuff), then use EPOXY (polyester shrinks and the styrene will attack your paint if it is exposed, nasty stuff) and woven fibreglass cloth to make a skin of each individual bit. Break it down into the bits that you can flip and fit into place on the passenger side. I'd estimate it is likely to be 3 pieces, the inner piece on the left that is partially cracked, the piece that runs along the bottom edge of the bumper, and the piece the sits on the side of the bumper. Get me? Then you can cut the lip off where it is cracked so it is square, and bond on your new pieces. Then feather them in using body filler, before spraying high build primer to fill the final low spots. Easy right?

There are quite alot of complex shapes there to flip im not sure it would be of benefit using a flip method...

Id say just get a better one, there is a heap there to recreate especially if you havnt done it before

Yes but you don't have to copy all of them. Just the ones that work, to give you a profile. Then you can fill the rest.

It's not the easiest job, but it's not super hard either. For a production item like this it's always going to be better to find another one though, unless you want to make it in carbon fibre ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...