Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys/girls, as title states what sort of numbers are people running with stock mounts using a 30 bottom end? Trying to decide if I should just go solid. If a mount breaks while under load with big hp can some serious damage happen? I've heard solids mounts can set your knock sensors off falsly, anyone have experience?

Ive had polyurethane engine mounts in another car.

All i will say is when i started the car in the garage, the windows at the back of the house were shaking, the first drive all i remember thinking was my fillings were about to fall out and everything outside the windscreen was a blur from the vibrations.

I didnt make it 200m down the road before turning back to put the rubber mounts back in....

If your worried about mounts breaking you can mod factory mounts to interlock when on big power or build a torque strap.

Modding the the factory mounts to interlock sounds interesting, have you had experience with this? Do you know of a link to info? I'll google and see what I can find. Thanks

In plain English, a bracket welded onto one side of the mounts steel bracket that reaches out and curves over to the other sides steel bracket with a few mm of space before it contacts the other side for movement.

Under normal driving the rubber cant stretch enough to make contact, under hard driving the plate will contact the other side and make a solid stop.

Sort of like a C section welded to one side and leave a few mm of gap to the other side.

On old school engines we use to fabricate something like a alternator bracket, fix one end to the chassis, the end with the large adjustment slot was positioned on a bolt on the head with a gap to move, as the engine twisted the bolt on the head could move in the slot till it reached the end and stopped, we use to call them torque straps.

It allowed engine movement but only so far.

Im not a fan of modern engine dampners, very flimsy units when pushing big power, more show than go.....

I googled some pics of interlocking mounts, seems easy enough to mod the stock ones. Cheers I reakon I'll give it a go. I still would have thought stock mounts would be good for up to at least 300kw, doing a search not too many people are complaining about them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
    • I was more thinking so it doesn't flop around as much rather than for rotating it. Once you have the balance right, it should rotate well enough, depending on how much resistance there is on the pivot. I think you said the pivot point was on a bearing though didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...