Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could you refer me to a cracked Raw Brokerage manifold? As we've yet to receive a complaint from any one.

I'm sure our one piece billet stainless collectors are stronger than a fabricated unit on any other setup:

1lBoYNNl.jpg

TopCat run's one on his 1000hp Time Attack Car, no problems:

4WVdyTI.jpg

WOW. Any more info on that car? I can't find anything on google

Just bought my second 6boost manifold and I think its great build quality and performance, would highly recommend

attachicon.gif2014-06-26 12.26.37.jpg

attachicon.gif2014-06-26 12.27.22.jpg

Your car makes me very jealous.

  • Like 1

You cant be serious? ;)

Perfect robotically tig welded runs as apposed to the shit 6boost welds? As far as I know the full race manifolds are schedule 40 pipe just the same as the 6 boost.

I've had both 6Boost and full-race (as mentioned above) in the sr20 configuration. The pipe diameters were the same and quality were both excellent but would sway towards the 6Boost for a better quality finish (this is back in 2008). The full-race is a heavy bugger being cast stainless and comes with lifetime warranty to the original purchaser....as I think the 6Boost does too.

Its not the welds - but rather the pipe to flange fitment i found the 6Boost to be better. I spent some time with a die grinder blending on the full-race. No such "tidy-up" was required on the 6Boost.

Interesting observation....the 6Boost also runs a shallower angle merge collector compared to the full-race and the above billet collector. Better.....who knows?

The full-race runs cast stainless pipe whereas the 6Boost does not. Perhaps the cast stainless is heavier.

On the jig

full-racemani.jpg

full-racemani2.jpg

On the car

ExhaustTurboIACVblock026.jpg

ExhaustTurboIACVblock025.jpg

ExhaustTurboIACVblock015.jpg

Edited by juggernaut1

I took these pics at work for work. They are both SR20DET twin scroll twin gate manifolds.

6boost is ceramic coated so all it's joins are smoothed out and so are it's welds, so it's not the most fair comparison but we'll work with what we got.

On 6boost you can see that there is surface rust already forming on the uncoated parts but the flange-to-pipe and "merge collector" are better compared to Full-race. Full-race ports each runner and the collector. Full-race is raw so you can see the welding is undeniably superior due to machine welding, it's stainless steel which has a few advantages including handling high heat better than the 6boost mild steel. Full race is a few hundred more expensive (in terms of SR20DET) so it's up to you if the advantages are "worth it".

Hope that helps :)

fullraceVS6boost1.jpg
fullraceVS6boost2.jpg
fullraceVS6boost3.jpg
fullraceVS6boost4.jpg
fullraceVS6boost5.jpg
fullraceVS6boost6.jpg
fullraceVS6boost7.jpg

A look inside the Raw Brokerage 304SS billet collector which is exact 100% of the time eliminating human error as well as variance in jigging. They're designed to have a shallow transition and identical primary merging:

5UIxdlMl.jpg

2,000 deg temp coated Raw Brokerage Billet Series Manifold:

C2wpKWNl.jpg

Just wondering if these manifold in twin scroll are quality product ?

My mechanic told me to stay away from Rawbrokerage because he saw too many cracking. He recommand 6boost (1600us) or Full-race ( 1800ish us) + shipping ( figure another 50-75us$)

While the 6boost is 1360us delivered. Is there any other manifold option for an EFR single ?

Having seen the pics the Rawbrokerage item is worlds away from the cheap ebay stainless manifolds that do crack and fail.

Has your mechanic seen an actual Rawbrokerage manifold that has failed?

So much idle gossip in this business but seeing is believing.

And slightly off topic that Top Cat car seems to be running one of the few 3.4L equipped RB30s! (want one for my car).

Could you refer me to a cracked Raw Brokerage manifold? As we've yet to receive a complaint from any one.

I'm sure our one piece billet stainless collectors are stronger than a fabricated unit on any other setup:

1lBoYNNl.jpg

TopCat run's one on his 1000hp Time Attack Car, no problems:

4WVdyTI.jpg

It's definitely a beautiful manifold but it sits ridiculously high (but maybe that's an rb30 specific problem)... 1000hp on an 8374 is a bit of a stretch too!

  • 1 year later...

I know this is an old thread but I am in the market for a T4 split pulse manifold.

The 6-Boost runners all look the same length albeit quite long but the pulsing should be smooth and even however the Doc Race and Full race do not look to be equal length runners, which would not be so good. Looks can be deceiving but that is what it looks like to me.

The stainless ones look pretty though.

6-Boost gets my vote. Function before Form!!

I know this is an old thread but I am in the market for a T4 split pulse manifold.

The 6-Boost runners all look the same length albeit quite long but the pulsing should be smooth and even however the Doc Race and Full race do not look to be equal length runners, which would not be so good. Looks can be deceiving but that is what it looks like to me.

The stainless ones look pretty though.

6-Boost gets my vote. Function before Form!!

664B16D5-A6E9-4D53-AD0A-61AFB2982E1E_zps

For what it's worth. A 6 Boost manifold on a RB26 based block with a 8374 1.05 ass end on it.

My mate is having trouble with his 6 boost manifold cracking, all the ones I have seen never have enough reinforcement on the welds.

Any he bought the manifold new but wasn't the original purchaser so they are not honoring the lifetime warranty which I think is disgraceful.

Just another reason I would never get one.

Really looking forward to your results Piggaz!

Will you tune it first on 98 before changing over to e85?

It's flex tuned so I'll post up both results.

98 is always a "commuter fuel". So I never really push it that hard. 20-22 psi on petrol it will be.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Rear doors central locking wiring removed and cleaned. See the first 8sec video of when it鈥檚 filled with river silt. its a snip of what I鈥檓 up against. front and rear doors complete now. Maybe another day removing carpet and bits and pieces. Then the re assembly begins. 馃 att.DqweJqhY5MZiZYQDVMhn3LtvdD1RBZ7TBG4f2s7W1zM.mp4 att.lFuN22MZEowqCbFAXoDw009r2gHL76ChMVfxMfBX-uk.mp4
    • There aren't boost creep issues, it's not engineered around the restriction of the cats but if you haven't tuned the engine a full decat + exhaust can flow enough air to run off the end of the OEM load scales and you will get a pretty substantial reduction in ignition timing as a result. I recommend using DFCO, avoiding ignition cut limiters, and avoiding popcorn tunes along with running a cat unless you enjoy a perpetually soot-covered and potentially burnt bumper.
    • Small update, it's been slow moving over the Christmas period with money having to go everywhere thats not my car 馃槄. I got myself a little present to myself from "santa" in the form of some tidy radiator mounts from fitmint automotive to get rid of the stock ones that look like they have been in an accident before and then straightened by a caveman. I know I should've replaced the rubber bush at the same time but I had no idea how bad they were until I was replacing the mounts. Decided to order their dash mat while I was at it as I feel like I am lucky enough to have a pretty decent condition dash and I don't want to risk it being ruined while it's parked in the aussie sun while I'm at work. I have found another electrical fault to add to the evergrowing list to eventually chase down. Every time I replace my taillight globe it blows within a day of use, I'm starting to think my life would be easier if I took a few minutes to learn how to use  a multimeter 馃槀.   Had some luck with finding a series 2 drivers headlight on marketplace to replace my mismatched series 1 headlight, a subtle difference but it's nice to have a matching set of lights now.   I returned to the air con problem due to being sick of this summer heat, found a good condition condenser to replace my leaking one! I got it in the car and was happy when I got the thumbs up that the system was now holding gas. Sadly the compressor is not kicking in for some reason, we even tried branching the relay in the fuse box. I have tried to do some research on the issue with no clear understanding of what the fix is, so for now it will be placed on the backburner until I can be bothered to look into the wiring to the compressor. The last small mods I have done was cutting the horizontal vents out of the front bar, not really in a functional airflow sense but I just think it looks better as I am not a fan of the series 2 bar. I also switched the shift knob out for a hosoboyo aluminium grex style one, it has a really nice more direct driving feel than the outdated rubbery oem one. Thirdly, I chucked on one of the ebay bonnet strut kits. The fitment is decent and they seem to work fairly well. They have only given out once while the car was parked facing downhill, I think if I was working under the bonnet I would still put the oem hood stay up to be precautionary as to avoid getting a speedy concussion.
    • Got pneumonia, haven鈥檛 played with her in a while, but I鈥檓 back now. Previous owners cut bonnet pins into the bonnet. My choice try find a replacement or spend $15 get some pins myself to cover up. Now only one small hole to cover. looks shit now, but when the bonnet is red again. Be good 馃
    • No R32 GTSt had 15" wheels. 205/55-16 was standard GTSt fare. 4.36:1 is standard R32 turbo auto diff. I think the manual was too, not 4.11. 4.11 and 4.08 were R33 namual and auto respectively.
  • Create New...