Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some will have seen that I started a previous thread about Black colour cars. I was pretty set on getting one in black but thanks to some helpful advice and I also had a chance to see one in person, I have decided against it.

It would frustrate the hell out of me to keep clean.

So I've pretty much narrowed it down to one or two colours. However I can't see any of them in person, as I live in the country and I'm pretty confident no one has a V36 in my neck of the woods.

So once again if anyone has had any experience with the colour cars that I will attach a picture of please let me know. Or any advice in general will be great. It's for a 2009 & up V36 370GT Coupe SP.

post-134916-0-03576000-1403527293_thumb.jpg This is Slate Blue. I like the colour, however I'm not sure if it will show every little mark like the Black colour?

post-134916-0-37090100-1403527335_thumb.jpg This is Graphite Shadow (I think) I would think there wouldn't be too many dramas with this colour.

post-134916-0-66215600-1403527754_thumb.jpg This is normal silver I reckon. This is the colour I would normally pick, however I'm pretty sure seeing the colour in person and in the sunlight, it is a very light colour. Not as dark as the photo? I don't want it looking too light & washed out.

Any input would be great. It's the last thing I need to get sorted before I can order the beast :)

My ideal colour would be a Chrome like Silver but I'm pretty sure it doesn't exist.

Cheers,

Paul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444800-help-with-final-colour-choice/
Share on other sites

graphite shadow and silver ftw...i personally have the silver and it's an awesome colour :)

Does the silver look really light, compared to other silver colour cars? It's really hard to tell looking at a rendered pic, compared to real life.

Graphite. Slate blue looks really elegant but it will be a bitch to maintain.

Yeah love the Slate blue. The getting dirty part doesn't worry me so much. It's the showing up of every little scratch & swirl mark, like the black shows that does me in. So I'm not sure if the Blue would be like that? So hard not seeing in person... That's what I need to know.

I've got the graphite, very easy to maintain. If it gets very dusty, ends up looking like it's silver

Love this :) big +1 My way of thinking.

If someone knows if the Slate Blue would be like black, please let me know. If it is, then it's a no brainer for me, Graphite all the way I reckon... Damn hard.

Does the silver look really light, compared to other silver colour cars? It's really hard to tell looking at a rendered pic, compared to real life.

Yeah love the Slate blue. The getting dirty part doesn't worry me so much. It's the showing up of every little scratch & swirl mark, like the black shows that does me in. So I'm not sure if the Blue would be like that? So hard not seeing in person... That's what I need to know.

Love this :) big +1 My way of thinking.

If someone knows if the Slate Blue would be like black, please let me know. If it is, then it's a no brainer for me, Graphite all the way I reckon... Damn hard.

The silver is light...very similar to the R34 silver. A little lighter actually. PM me if you want a better picture to look at, ill send you a few.

Slate blue is not too bad but not my cup of tea at all. I think the graphite is the best of the lot. Couldn't find one for over 3 months and the silver one came up so I took it.

Graphite mate! Itll look boss with some nice black rims.... ughhhh nuff said

Yeah Graphite is looking pretty sweet at the moment. Glad you said about the black rims. That's what I was thinking, just wasn't sure if it would be a good look or not?

P.s why not white?

Seriously.... ;) Nah, sorry no offence to owners of the white. Just not my style. Mind you I have seen some great ones with blacked out rims and windows. Just not what I'm after for my 370GT Coupe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...