Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I'm thinking about changing my turbo setup from low mount hks gtrs turbos to a single hks t51r kai, my question is what would this turbo be like to drive on the street? When would it roughly hit full boost? Would it light up four wheels once it hits full boost taking off in first and second gear? I'm asking these questions because I don't want a super laggy car or a car that is hopeless to drive from to much wheel spin, my car is a r32 gtr and my motor is a 26/30 and my head has over sized valves, port work and 280 cams with 10.5 lift. Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444805-t51r-on-the-street/
Share on other sites

Nytsky would be the best person to ask, he has a t51r on a 25/30 in an r33 gtst

The other thing to consider about is in recent times turbo technology has come leaps and bounds and there are turbos that will make t51r power with greatly reduced lag. But it's your car and you have the final say

Dude you have MORE THAN ENOUGH to buy something newer and nicer than that old turd burger! If you dont want a super laggy turbo then this ISN'T the turbo for you! If you think $3300 is cheap for an OLD school used turbo it isnt lol.. If you have $3300 to burn now save another $700 and get a new 6466 and manifold and gates etc. :D

I have a T51R on my 26, no two ways about it, it is laggy, but it does have a very rich tune on it which does not help the lag. With a decent tune it should be much better. At the moment it's hitting 25psi at around 5000rpm and holds strong all the way to 9000rpm.

Jez

I was thinking of maybe changing my gtrs turbos with twin low mounted gtx2863's, I'll be running e85 with a 30 bottom end as well. I like the idea of twins but I don't no if they'd produce the power I want

^^^ Now ya heading in the right direction!

Forgot about the number dude its how it makes the power!

If its a street car you want best area under the curve :)

Nothing is gayer than needing to dial up 7000rpm and 1000db of RB fury to beat a V6 commodore ;)

  • Like 1

^^^ Now ya heading in the right direction!

Forgot about the number dude its how it makes the power!

If its a street car you want best area under the curve :)

Nothing is gayer than needing to dial up 7000rpm and 1000db of RB fury to beat a V6 commodore ;)

I disagree.

Vtech is.

  • Like 1

The bottom end is forged je pistons with h beam rods, nitto head gasket, nitto oil pump , with all the other oil mods, 9 litre sump, balanced with a ati balancer and a direct racing twin plate clutch( top if the range) the head has double valve springs with 280 cams with 10.5 lift , 1mm oversized valves, inlet and exhaust ported, exhaust is 3.5 inch stainless with hks dump pipes and hks pulse low mount manifolds , ecu is a haltec plug in platinum pro, splitfire coil packs with a hks igniter .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...