Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, I am having trouble with bad wear to the inside of my tires. My car is not that low but I have a little bit of camber angle and I was wondering if I get adjustable arms if my wheels will hit the arches. I got a wheel alignment done and have te figures on paper if that will help any one. I just need to know if It's worth me fitting them of not. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444869-adjustable-camber-arms/
Share on other sites

I don't really have much wear on the rear it's mainly the front, the tires have worn away a strange way also. It's warn on the side but not evenly around the edge, it's hard to explain. I got it done at autotec on sherwood road, I think it's in rocklea.

Without telling us what width/offset your wheels are, no one can say for certainty what will hit or clear...

Yes. Having adjustable camber arms will give you some adjustment to "tuck" the top of the wheel under the guard. However, no amount of camber in the world is going save you if your wheel width and offset are ridiculous...

Edited by R32Abuser

Tyres dont look too bad. A little less camber is probably better for street tyres. A set or two of adjustable bushes should be enough, and will still be legal. The reduction in toe you got might help a bit too (and should make it a little more eager to change direction).

U might be better off getting suspension check done at fulcrum or pedders then before swapping anything camber, make sure nothing's worn out. I had combo of control arm bush and ball joint wear, killed inside of both front tyres.

  • Like 1

I'm having a similar issue with my BNR32. Put it up on the rack to do an oil change, and the front tires were completely corded on the inside! After only 8,000 km!

The car is pretty low, but do R32's gain THAT much negative camber when lowered? Tire size is 245/45R17.

Are adjustable upper control arms the answer?

I'm having a similar issue with my BNR32. Put it up on the rack to do an oil change, and the front tires were completely corded on the inside! After only 8,000 km!

The car is pretty low, but do R32's gain THAT much negative camber when lowered? Tire size is 245/45R17.

Are adjustable upper control arms the answer?

yep and yep

I'm having a similar issue with my BNR32. Put it up on the rack to do an oil change, and the front tires were completely corded on the inside! After only 8,000 km!

The car is pretty low, but do R32's gain THAT much negative camber when lowered? Tire size is 245/45R17.

Are adjustable upper control arms the answer?

As per above, depends on a few variables as to how badly your tyres will wear. But yes, lower your car excessively and expect the inside to "cord" unless you install adjustable arms/bushes...

as I understand it, too much neg camber can wear out the inside of tyres, but wrong toe setting will *prematurely* wear out inside of tyres, as a result of them 'scrubbing' across the surface rather than smoothly rolling.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
    • I'm a bit stuck with this one fellas, I recently decided to undertake a turbo conversion on my GTS-4, ended up pulling the motor to replace all the seals and do an mls head gasket and arp head studs while I was at it. Everything has gone according to plan, no oil or coolant leaks, compression checked out, and decided to give it a test before I book it in for a tune As it stands right now, the turbo only has oil lines plumbed so that I don't put boost into my untuned engine, and I'm using the factory GTS-T crossover pipe with a maf and poddy as a temporary intake. The car starts with relative ease and idles amazingly, however as the title suggests it really doesn't want to rev up, runs very smooth but almost feels choked out and unresponsive to the throttle, almost like it's running lean or something? I've triple checked my vacuum lines and timing with a timing light, injectors haven't been touched as of yet to avoid flooding the engine and worked perfectly beforehand, new plugs and coilpacks, I've even unbolted the cat just to see if it spontaneously collapsed, no dice The car currently has a nistune r32 gtst ecu installed so I have no way to check for fault codes. At this point I'm a bit stumped. Is this normal behaviour for a car with a turbo bolted onto the exhaust going nowhere? I'd imagine the turbo wouldn't cause this much restriction in the exhaust without the boost going through the intake. Any ideas? If necessary I can link a video of how it responds to full throttle while in neutral.  
    • Insert tab A into slot B?
    • Instructions seem simple enough to understand.....
×
×
  • Create New...