Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, I am having trouble with bad wear to the inside of my tires. My car is not that low but I have a little bit of camber angle and I was wondering if I get adjustable arms if my wheels will hit the arches. I got a wheel alignment done and have te figures on paper if that will help any one. I just need to know if It's worth me fitting them of not. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444869-adjustable-camber-arms/
Share on other sites

I don't really have much wear on the rear it's mainly the front, the tires have worn away a strange way also. It's warn on the side but not evenly around the edge, it's hard to explain. I got it done at autotec on sherwood road, I think it's in rocklea.

Without telling us what width/offset your wheels are, no one can say for certainty what will hit or clear...

Yes. Having adjustable camber arms will give you some adjustment to "tuck" the top of the wheel under the guard. However, no amount of camber in the world is going save you if your wheel width and offset are ridiculous...

Edited by R32Abuser

Tyres dont look too bad. A little less camber is probably better for street tyres. A set or two of adjustable bushes should be enough, and will still be legal. The reduction in toe you got might help a bit too (and should make it a little more eager to change direction).

U might be better off getting suspension check done at fulcrum or pedders then before swapping anything camber, make sure nothing's worn out. I had combo of control arm bush and ball joint wear, killed inside of both front tyres.

  • Like 1

I'm having a similar issue with my BNR32. Put it up on the rack to do an oil change, and the front tires were completely corded on the inside! After only 8,000 km!

The car is pretty low, but do R32's gain THAT much negative camber when lowered? Tire size is 245/45R17.

Are adjustable upper control arms the answer?

I'm having a similar issue with my BNR32. Put it up on the rack to do an oil change, and the front tires were completely corded on the inside! After only 8,000 km!

The car is pretty low, but do R32's gain THAT much negative camber when lowered? Tire size is 245/45R17.

Are adjustable upper control arms the answer?

yep and yep

I'm having a similar issue with my BNR32. Put it up on the rack to do an oil change, and the front tires were completely corded on the inside! After only 8,000 km!

The car is pretty low, but do R32's gain THAT much negative camber when lowered? Tire size is 245/45R17.

Are adjustable upper control arms the answer?

As per above, depends on a few variables as to how badly your tyres will wear. But yes, lower your car excessively and expect the inside to "cord" unless you install adjustable arms/bushes...

as I understand it, too much neg camber can wear out the inside of tyres, but wrong toe setting will *prematurely* wear out inside of tyres, as a result of them 'scrubbing' across the surface rather than smoothly rolling.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dragging some reo behind a ute or trailer will smooth out a dirt road, I've used reo a few times to do unsealed road maintenance when we didn't have any plant available  It's best done when the dirt is wet though, and then you just let it dry out for a day to harden up For wetting the dirt I've used some 44 gal drums in a ute or trailer, and a water pump connected to a hose with a old sprinkler tied to the reo to wet the material down whilst spreading Basically just drive slowly up and down the road a few times dragging a few sheets of reo wired together with the sprinkler wetting it all down as you go
    • I did a motokhana years ago with ??Sydney Sporting Car Club???, it was on a grassy paddock and was heaps of fun, I think it was north west Sydney IIRC The old R33 boat was covered in grass and dirt, but nothing that a good wash and detail didn't fix And thinking back, when SAU did the airstrip run in Goulburn years ago, where the old 33 won highest RWD MPH, the quickest RWD ET on the airstrip, and best paint IIRC (before the runs down the airstrip) the damage to the rear quarters from stones flicking up required them the get a respray  I would definitely do a grass motokhana again in the MX5 Who knows someone that owns a farm with a big empty paddock  Liability these days is a big issue though
    • No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
×
×
  • Create New...