Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst Brakes Need To Replace Asap!

Peanut92
 Share

Recommended Posts

Peanut92 Collaborator

Peanut92

Posted
Posted

Ok I have searched so please don't flame me. Nothing has shown up I. My searches with a clear anwser to my question

So obviously car in question s1 33 gtst. Standard rotors. (Fronts are ok rears have a little lip)

Brake pads have squeeled like a bitch when I got them. They have gotten worse (4 - 5 months of owning it). I remember having a quick look and they had heaps of meat so I assumed possibly shit pads it's only ever when it was cold. A few stops and she was fine

Now every light every stop it's loud and getting on my nerves

Now I drive my car pretty hard. And I drift on the occasion. Sometimes at the track. Sometimes at my personal area? If you want to call it that. (This car hasn't seen track yet.)

I don't intend to do any circuit racing or anything that requires the breaks of a supercar

So my question is

Is it worth the money to get slotted and drilled rotors. And if so what ones are worth getting? To suit my needs as stated above

And then the second is obviously what pads

I've always used bendix as far as I know. Trying to get something with minimal dust and ZERO SQUEEL

My budget is pretty mild at the moment. But if it's going to do me a great deal to get something a bit more pricey well I won't tight arse out

But i would rather not waste money on discs and pads that don't help my situation

I also do frequent burnouts

But I'm not the type to ride my brakes down mountains until they are cherry

Thanks in advance and please try not to flame me if that's possible

Yeedogga Experienced

Yeedogga

Posted
Posted

IBTL

But srsly- slotted rotors are cheap as chips from places like RDA (or eBay) so u might as well.

Get a set of those, decent fluid and some QFM or Bendix Ultimate pads and you will be set.

Braided brake lines if you have extra $.

As for "zero squeal" - make sure u have the anti rattle shims in place, clean everything well when replacing and lube the pad sliders.

Or harden up.

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

GSL RALLYSPORT... Cheap and have some good gear...

Don't do dumb shit on the street, or at least if you do dont advertise it on this forum... Ever!

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Naww dude,

Telling people you are hardcore is so hardcore

I have an erection at the thought of someone drifting a whale on the street.

This cannot be unseen :woot:

Cassbo Grand Master

Cassbo

Posted
Posted

As for "zero squeal" - make sure u have the anti rattle shims in place, clean everything well when replacing and lube the pad sliders.

Or harden up.

This.

I run Project Mu HC+ pads (a pad that isn't famous for being whisper quiet OR minimal dust) in my Riceline and the only time they "squeeled like a bitch" is when I am bedding them in.

Peanut92 Collaborator

Peanut92

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Lol so I get flamed anyways. This is why people don't post on forums anymore....

As for drifting in other places

Blame the government and council I live along way from eastern creek. Oran park wasn't so bad until they canned it.

I live rural on a low salary. Most times it's on my property anyways.

People arnt stupid. I wouldn't be the only person who's cut loose somewhere other then a track. Just tried to give an idea. How much abuse the pads and rotors will see

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Also whoever asked again

I googled all last night. Without a straight answer.

Hence this post

Well forget Google and get on the phone to GSL Rallysport and all the answers will magically appear :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • kevboost7
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By kevboost7 · Posted

      Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • MBS206
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • dbm7
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • joshuaho96
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...