Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

At the moment I'm ready to petrol bomb it...

Yes, I'm trying to get something done before trackday, but it isn't going much to plan. Hopeful that it will be done.

  • Like 1

Did you ever get the dump pipe crack sorted?

Yeah, the local guy down the road put a good 1/2 inch of weld on everything... Lol

It is all good I think, welded some re-enforcing into it as well.

  • Like 1

Where the dump pipe bolts to the gearbox, was all cracked and blowing. But got that sorted.

Annnnnd I may have broken a R200.... The 9 inch of the Nissan world :/

So - pre trackday update!

This car started life as a SR20 Auto, so it had a 3.9 ratio diff in it, while all other SR s13s came with a 4.11. Was originally a Open diff, and the previous owner put the Kaaz LSD in it. I was finding that the combination of 3.9 and the largish turbo was hampering me in a few areas of every track that I use. There were sections where it just felt so slow as you waited for it to come onto boost again. I noticed that I was just about one gear lower than all the skylines buddies that I track with. So I made up my mind, and decided to go to a 4.11. That's where the fun began.

So I got a R33 VLSD-A off Pezhead, that uses 4.11 and is a poo diff, so it was going to donate its crown and pinion. I dropped everything off at Award Gearbox and Diff, where Terry, Trish, and Mick were going to look after me. I soon got the call that the 3.9 Diff wasn't coming apart, even after a 20 ton, and then a 40 ton press. Something in the passenger side Stub was bunged up real good! So what they had to do to get it all apart was very time consuming, and had me running round like a mad man!

The Case (the big cast housing bit) was cut in the rear to remove/disassemble the hemisphere as much as possible. Once that was out, a very large drill had to be used to drill through the end of the Stub, to the point where the circlip sits, to free it.

Thankfully after a few phone calls through connections (its not what you know, its who you know ;) ) I had a S13 VLSD from JLM at Rydalmere to use the case from (the shafts and centre being different), and a matching Stub axle from Stuart Wilkins out at Mulgrave. Both life savers!!!

So now I christen it "FrankinDiff".

Its back in the car, and ready to test on Monday at SMSP. Most probably a wet day, but will be fun.

Box of left over Frankin parts

20177421443_f92ae6136d_c.jpg

Can you imagine how hard this would be to drill through??

20798389725_da1faaff44_c.jpg

Ahh, after many phone calls, and much scavenging... its back together!

20610394160_630593d3ee_c.jpg

  • Like 1

I have access to a set of michelin wets, but can't really justify the cost of getting them mounted just for this day.

I'll run the street setup of Federal RSRs that have plenty of tread. Should be ok, not fantastic.

  • 3 weeks later...

Belated trackday wrap up.

I had fun :)

Car was good, I softened it out as much as possible and ran the federal RSRs in the wet conditions, never dried enough for slicks. The last session was a possibility, but no time to change them over as sessions were combined. Found the RSRs very pressure fussy. I dropped 2psi out and it turned into a dog, so I had to top them up again. they were happy round 36-37psi.

Car never got off gate pressure boost, which was well enough for the conditions. Struggled for grip in turn 5 which had some arse clapping moments, also round corp hill made for some interesting driving.Brakes were fine - really never got to temp.

Diff was great, so glad I had the Kaaz to make things predictable, and the ratio was an improvement, even in the bad conditions.

Fastest lap was the last lap of the day, the last session was great, having a tussle with Dave for 3rd/4th. Unfortunately he pipped me by something like 0.15 of a sec. So ended up 4th of a field of 37, happy with that.

I'm going to dump Track vids now...

Fastest Lap of the day-

Having a bit of a spin up the hill.

Taking BakeomonoRicer GT car master out for a passenger session. Small brown stain in passengers seat afterwards.

So, what's next?

I've got to get the car ready for the upcoming RTDC day on the North Circuit in October. Nothing much needs doing, but might treat it to an engine flush and some fresh oil. Hoping for dry weather to bolt the slicks back on and hunt some GTRs and Emos. :P

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TBH, it sounds like the threads on the bolt are fubar in a specific section. Most likely as you've been working it back and forth it has torn threads out, as you loosen the bolt, this section enters the nut, now you're spinning a round shaft inside the nut, there's no threads here.   Use something similar to a claw on a hammer that will fit either side of the bolt head and try to apply downward force while also undoing it. The idea is to attempt to catch a thread, or just rip the f**ker out. Caution on ripping out, as it could bend/maime/mangle what the captive nut attaches to. If the captive nut is actually okay, you could do the dirty part of cutting the head off the bolt, then cut a slit in the end of the thread that's now exposed and then screw it up and into the area the captive nut is until it falls out the other side. However, this does risk the remainder of the bolt rusting over time and damaging near the captive nut and also making it rust. However, so can cutting pieces of panel work out to access this area if you don't reseal it properly.
    • Well, every piece of information on that part when you track it back to Nitto says it's for a KIT of theirs. It is also designed thicker to be stronger. And they speak about a specific harmonic balancer bolt they supply for the whole setup.
    • Techniques for removing stuck bolts are: hitting the bolt head with a hammer, heating the bolt to red hot then letting it cool and working it back and forth like you are already doing. AFAIK the idea is to try to crush whatever material is stuck between the threads (and heat also melts locktite but that's almost certainly not relevant in this case).
    • Yuh, I think it works with the Nitto gear only. I presume that you're not also using the Nitto gear? Watch the video. Compare the interface between the Nitto gear and washer (on the gear side) vs the stocker and decide if you think the Nitto gear is different from stock there.
    • Liking the new charger, battery all good (I think).   Also like how you can put it in power supply mode too. Will troubleshoot with that sometime soon.
×
×
  • Create New...