Jump to content
SAU Community

C34 Stagea Engine Light On After Attempted Theft

harolto

By harolto,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

harolto Explorer

harolto

Posted
Posted

G'day,

My mum brought a C34 about a month ago, and during the week some milkshake tried to steal it,
They stole a pivot speed meter (just cut it out) not sure if this might cause any problems?
After replacing the ignition barrel, i took it for a drive, and after hitting mild boost (1/4 throttle for about 10 seconds) the engine light came on, and has been on ever since.
Also the interior light doesn't turn off when the ignition is turned on (unsure if it is meant to as have barely driven it)
Any help would be great, as i want to get it back to how it was for her

-Jake

harolto Explorer

harolto

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replys,
How do i check the code? after googling it i came across heaps of answers on how to do this, and sat there for about 1/2 an hour turn the car off and on, pressing the accelerator in and out. and the light never flashed.

The switch is on in the middle, and mum just told me that it used to dim, so this has only happened since the attempted theft.

thanks again

-Jake

Lakes101 Experienced

Lakes101

Posted
Posted

Checking the code is just a matter of getting the timing right on the procedure use your watch to count the seconds and make sure your following the procedure for the c34 stageas not m35 stageas mate you'll get there just a matter of timing or head to your local garage and they can check the code with a scan tool. No sure about the interior light unless the damaged the switch invite door sill when breaking in try pushing the switch on the door sill with the door open and ignition on and see if it works mate.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the replys,

How do i check the code? after googling it i came across heaps of answers on how to do this, and sat there for about 1/2 an hour turn the car off and on, pressing the accelerator in and out. and the light never flashed.

The switch is on in the middle, and mum just told me that it used to dim, so this has only happened since the attempted theft.

thanks again

-Jake

You bridged the contacts in the plug behind the coin tray?

533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

Everyone has missed your second line Jake. For most 180k speed cut devices, when wired in, require the installer to cut the signal wire to the ECU. The fact that they just cut the wiring when they stole the speed meter, the ECU isn't getting the signal it should, hence the engine light.

Q: Does the speedo/odometer still work?

I just googled 'Pivot speed meter installation instructions' & checked out the PDF. You need to cut the speed signal wire for the 180k speed limiter. This most likely why the engine light is on. If you connect the White & Green wires together, clear the codes as per the provided link by Bob (KiwiRS4T) you should be sweet. Make sure you insulate all exposed wiring with electrical tape & tidy it up. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...