Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i suspect it would only be for serious buyers who put down a deposit.

also, i am not sure when this car was deregistered in japan. from what little i know it has spent time in the united states, another thing that scares me is that it might originally have been a motorex car, which raises questions as to its importation status. the seller claims it's legal and registered in canada however.

we are on national holiday here in canada. everyone is closed. i'm going to be left with more questions than answers for the meantime.

i am also hoping for a test drive. i've never been in an r34 before, only r32's. if it ends up being slower than what i have now serious man tears are going to be shed.

Edited by DN1097

Depending what you are after obviously. Modified, unmodified or lightly modified.

Personally I would choose the first one. It appears to me to be more honest than the following 2.

However, if your looking for speed then heck yes buy one that's been modified (PROPERLY with paperwork by a reputable performance garage)

yeah depends what you're after...the R35 will be significantly faster than the R34 especially after supporting mods.

The R34 will be a classic like the R32 and the KPGC10, but perhaps not for another 10 years.

  • 2 weeks later...

i met the owner of this GT-R last week:

10479136_10152586676453134_4542792734389

he told me he knew of the GTR i originally asked about above. the car is being sold on consignment, hence the markup and quite possibly why i have not seen it at their lot because the owner is driving it... oh well.

the owner of this car did quite well for himself. he spent a long time finding this one. it is a grade 4 car with B interior. i am not certain why it has a B rating because the interior was mint and had not been smoked in, but there was a lot of aftermarket electronics like a boost controller, defi gauges, navi and a tein edfc that were not well/permanently installed, which could be the reason why, but he has since sorted it out. he bought it himself at a tokyo auction house (i can't remember the name) before it was 15 years old (as per canada import laws), but had brave auto international to store it until it was and it was shipped by container to canada, and here it is now. he paid almost half of what the one i was looking at was asking for. sigh.

Edited by DN1097

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...