Jump to content
SAU Community

V8 Supercar Spec Alcons Front Brake Set Up For Skyline

sycorb
 Share

Recommended Posts

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Really? A professional workshop installed them? I would be mocking them the next time you speak with them that you prefer they dont drink when they work on your car :)

Its not a big deal at all. Rather simple. Its right up there with people who piece together kits and install curved vane rotors on the wrong side of the car not realising how the curved vanes work. Its no biggie...but on a track car will work properly if installed properly.

The point of the bleed nipples is a simple fix...but an important one for the person who takes them off your hands. The Advantage Mono6 caliper which is what you have has different sized pistons in the caliper. They are different sizes to keep uniform pressure on the pad and rotor face. The leading pistons should be the smaller; the trailing the larger pistons.

You are all correct in the bleed nipples need to face upwards...but look at this pic.

http://cdn.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/monthly_07_2014/post-486-0-83920000-1405117815.jpg

That pic is passenger side ...now think about which way the rotor passes through the caliper when driving

The pistons near where the A of Alcon is the smaller (30.2mm) piston and the other end near the logo is the 38.1mm piston. The way they have installed your caliper is that the large piston is the leading piston and the smaller piston is the trailing. That is wrong and will give you rather poor pad temps and wear....essentially hamstringing the performance of the kit from what it will be capable of.

The fix is when they are off the car then you remove the bleed nipples, remove the external fluid line at the other end of the caliper and swap them over , effective flipping the caliper so the piston sizes are correctly orientated. Of course this will mean what is currently the drivers side caliper will become the passenger side caliper and vice versa.

I have the big brother Prodrive version of this caliper on a 380x35 R35 rotor...they are a good piece of kit and whoever buys them will be stoked....its just that they arent configured right for a Nissan :)

sycorb Mentor

sycorb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so the caliper is upside down

and the nipple goes where the smaller pistons are is that correct?

sad to say Roy but i think that you have used the bloke that installed these rotors as well

so are the rotors right that pic is passenger side?

not many people are fans of his anymore

Brad from profab

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
×
×
  • Create New...