Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Really? A professional workshop installed them? I would be mocking them the next time you speak with them that you prefer they dont drink when they work on your car :)

Its not a big deal at all. Rather simple. Its right up there with people who piece together kits and install curved vane rotors on the wrong side of the car not realising how the curved vanes work. Its no biggie...but on a track car will work properly if installed properly.

The point of the bleed nipples is a simple fix...but an important one for the person who takes them off your hands. The Advantage Mono6 caliper which is what you have has different sized pistons in the caliper. They are different sizes to keep uniform pressure on the pad and rotor face. The leading pistons should be the smaller; the trailing the larger pistons.

You are all correct in the bleed nipples need to face upwards...but look at this pic.

http://cdn.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/monthly_07_2014/post-486-0-83920000-1405117815.jpg

That pic is passenger side ...now think about which way the rotor passes through the caliper when driving

The pistons near where the A of Alcon is the smaller (30.2mm) piston and the other end near the logo is the 38.1mm piston. The way they have installed your caliper is that the large piston is the leading piston and the smaller piston is the trailing. That is wrong and will give you rather poor pad temps and wear....essentially hamstringing the performance of the kit from what it will be capable of.

The fix is when they are off the car then you remove the bleed nipples, remove the external fluid line at the other end of the caliper and swap them over , effective flipping the caliper so the piston sizes are correctly orientated. Of course this will mean what is currently the drivers side caliper will become the passenger side caliper and vice versa.

I have the big brother Prodrive version of this caliper on a 380x35 R35 rotor...they are a good piece of kit and whoever buys them will be stoked....its just that they arent configured right for a Nissan :)

so the caliper is upside down

and the nipple goes where the smaller pistons are is that correct?

sad to say Roy but i think that you have used the bloke that installed these rotors as well

so are the rotors right that pic is passenger side?

not many people are fans of his anymore

Brad from profab

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...