Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car was running fine, then decided to finally coat the caps on top of the injectors, put them all back, new stainless bolts and now black caps and its running rough.

ive narrowed it down to no6, as when removing injector plugs one by one its only one that does not kill or affect the rough idle, it has 11.72v to the plug.

How do i check the injector is firing?

Why would it now not be working after a simple take cap off paint replace bolts and reassemble?

I did at the same time take off cas and timing belt cover to paint exposed vct end as it now shows through the rb26 timing cover, but this idle is way rougher than just the cas being a smidge out and changing the cas position makes little to no dif, i had marked the cas up before removing its always been marked as it gets removed occasionally for various things...

Any help appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445103-one-injector-possibly-not-firing/
Share on other sites

Ok ive confirmed its not the injectors, swapped a couple around and still same issue.

Checked plugs, one was sooty the other was wet, changed plugs, still same issue,

Thought perhaps painting the vct end of the cam has done something, loosened four small bolts on front of vct and had a look tightened them back up car is running much better but still a bit rough.

So, what do people think has happened, painting the vct has caused it to not work correctly.

I did notice the exhaust sounded weird when running rough and atmo bov noise sounded different now that i loosened the bolts on vct and tightened them again sound is back to normal beside it still running rough..

Ive got rb26 cam and timing belt covers, i cut a hole in the timing belt cover to allow the vct intake cam end to poke thru, since ive be dressing up the engine bay ive pajnted case and now the intake cam end, which is the vct actuator (not sure what to call that), so i painted the part that pikes thru the 26 timing belt cover for cosmetics, but it seems in doing that it may of created this prob.

Ive only noticed it as i painted it around the dame period as painting the caps on the injectors, it doesnt get driven much..

So when ive loosen and retighten the four bolts on the the end of the intake came, vct end part it has made a difference to the rough idle..

Hence why i thinking painting it has interfered with its operation, are the four bolts on the the end of the intake cam (vct) needing to be to torqued to a specific number or are you not supposed to loosen and retighten them at all...

This is something ive not done previously so im shooting in the dark here...

Your help is much appreciated...

Yes I agree with above^^^^^

Please send photo of engine bay. do you think you might have painted a contact for one of the injector power supply. Next did you remove the vtc timing sprocket to paint it. ??:huh::huh:

Looking at it I doubt that's the issue but as it only happened after you painted it must be, all I would do is grind the paint off under the bolt heads just incase it's some weird earthing issue and change back to mild steel bolts instead of stainless . I had an issue like this years ago with an audi and it's hard to accept sometimes but the issue wasn't there before so you have to start again unfortunately

I'm using stainless bolts on my side feed injector caps, no issues at all

As for the VCT actuator which you have painted, It shouldn't really effect the performance of the car at all wether you painted it on the car or off. By the looks of it you painted it off the car, but I could be wrong. That bit there is all mechanical, the only problem you could have would be oil leaking from the front cover.

Seems odd that Something happened when you played with that cover. Maybe there is a problem with the VCT somewhere, maybe in the solenoid or wiring. Have you tried unplugging the VCT and seeing how the car runs? I get the feeling you might have already mentioned that you have done this but just in case

What ECU are you running/whens the last time it was tuned?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not that I know from experience, but in theory you'd want your gate spring to be as close to target pressure as possible, so you'd go with the higher gate spring?
    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...