Help! Needed New Injector Doesnt Seat In The Rail

[RamR33]

Hi guys

I got a set of fiveomotor sport 1000cc injectors and one of them went faulty,

so got a new one from them and it doesn't fit as in the nozzle doesn't come out all the way through the rail hole.

only difference between them is one has a yellow ring under the nozzle seal which is stopping it from fitting.

any ideas around this.

need help asap on what to do as in return it or some way to fit.

R33 gtst

heres some pics to get a idea of what im talking about.

the one with the yellowish ring is the one that's not fitting in all the way by a few mm

Edited July 2, 2014 by RamR33

[scotty nm35]

Surely fiveO are the guys you want to contact, not us.

[Ben C34]

How can we help?

It even looks like a different color injector.

[89CAL]

Not hearing many good things about the fiveomotorsport injectors these days

Best to speak to them and get a replacement. The yellow ring isn't just a backup ring or something that you can pull out and try to fit it without the yellow ring?

[scotty nm35]

It's got a different (GTR style) Oring on the plenum end, perhaps it can be removed and replaced with a round Oring, but the filter is also in a different spot, as they are old second hand base stock and the set isn't matched anymore.

[RamR33]

All good just a spacer they said and was removed no problem.

All good in fitting now.

Fiveo are not the best as this is my second injector replacement as the last 2 with in 2 month of around 500ks just died from the set I bought from them.

No ohm reading from one of them when I took them out from the set I bought ,as they just died 1 in 1 month and another the next month.

All good for now see how we go I guess.

Just be careful buying from them as they seem to just die the resistor or something in them.

Thanks for the help.

Edited July 3, 2014 by RamR33

[scotty nm35]

The 'resistor' in them is the coil, not something you want to let go on you at full noise. Intermittent injectors can easily kill an engine. I can't believe people actually rated these highflow pieces of crap.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

OH FUARK....

that's bad news, I bought a used set (rookie mistake) - 1 was fuarked, so I bought 2 new ones.. car runs.. but doesn't idle, doesn't cruise well.. it needs more than 2.2ms before it actually sprays something.. anything under it misses like a slaart on shards...

At idle, I'm giving it around 1.7ms and AFRs are down to 12.2 on 98RON....

they're pretty shit... I'm getting fed up - but to mask the problem I filled up with E85 and rescaled everything

[RamR33]

Yes scotty they are crap and u did tell me I know.

Just didn't want to go top feed with new fuel rail and fpr.

Guess ill see how I go for now with them but if it does happen again ,what side feed injectors would fit in the standard fuel rail at 1000cc.

[scotty nm35]

As far as I am aware, sidefeeds are only made up to 550cc. Nismo had the 750's specially made but anything else is a drilled out stock injector.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Yes scotty they are crap and u did tell me I know.

Just didn't want to go top feed with new fuel rail and fpr.

Guess ill see how I go for now with them but if it does happen again ,what side feed injectors would fit in the standard fuel rail at 1000cc.

How's your idle and cruise AFRs with theses injectors?

I've got the 1200cc ones and they're pissinge off so much I'm ready to pull them all out and convert to top feed.

I find that they need about 2.0ms to drive smooth anything below it misfires and splutters like a dying horse.

[RamR33]

For me not one problem at all besides when the injector dies lol

Afr on idle can't Remember but will check dyno sheet at home and get back to you.

My main problem is being on e85 starting up is horrible for like 5/10 seconds but can't drive it for around 5 minutes as when you jab accelerator it will splutter as have a adaptronic is set to 100% on cranking but doesn't go no more and needs more was told by tuner.

but firmware needs to be rewritten which sucks.

My idle is pretty good once warmed up and then settles nice but wen cold if I accelerate/rev it will drop bad down then climb back up.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Dyno sheet won't show you AFRs for idle or cruise

Also on crank, etc. you can go over 100% - the table is in VE. I use an Adaptronic too, also you can reduce the splutter by adding in extra async into "Extra cold async" this will give the car more fuel when it's cold to reduce the hesitation.

Also the cold idle issue can be fixed using the "Base Idle Value" table.. this allows a higher duty to be set vs. temperature.

[RamR33]

Thanks for that info

Will try that as can't just let it warm up and then drive off and I park and goes back in to like cold start a little and idles a little strange until it warms up again.

But are you on e85 ? as it need over 100.

I was told needs around 180% because when I first start it in the morning I have to jab at the accelerator rapidly and then it's ok after 10 or so seconds.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I'm on E85 as well

I have mine set at 80 ish when warm, when it's cold it's about 140% and tapers down, I'll take some screen shots when I get home (however my injector latency is set VERY high hence the VE in vacuum is inaccurate)

You don't need to jab anything, you can actually set the extra throttle duty & timing it holds for on initial start

PM me who tuned your car - I'm curious

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

here we go, of course these settings probably won't work for your car however it will give you an idea of where to start...

Please note the reason why my VE in my crank tables are lower than yours is because I've set my injector dead times pretty high.. to get these stupid rubbish garden hose injectors to idle properly.

Best way around this is to start up the Adaptronic software and press 'F2' on your keyboard. Then start your car, note where the water temp is at and adjust your idle duty vs. water temp so it idles where you want it too. Just remember to set the PID all to '0' (remembering the old values) - this takes the idle off closed loop.

I remembered wrong haha, however with the cranking fuel table.. do the same see where your water temp is and adjust the cranking fuel around that area till the car starts nice and easy, then fill in the values between the new point and your warm point.. just guess the values - tends to be close enough, unless you're board and you set and test per temperature range