Jump to content
SAU Community

*syd* R32 Gtr For Sale - Forged Engine, Par Gearbox, Nismo Turbos, Safe 341Kw

tooslow
 Share

Recommended Posts

tooslow Explorer

tooslow

Posted
Posted (edited)

Vehicle: 1993 R32 GTR

Rego: WPN26T

Colour: White

Asking: $24000

Km on the clock: 86,000km

Km on engine, gear box and clutch: less than 10,000

Up for sale is my pride and joy. I have owned this R32 GTR for roughly 4 years. It is only driven on very rare occasions and spends most of its time garaged. Before buying it I spent almost a year looking for this GTR and I had big plans for it but now due to family reasons (we need a 2nd family car - 4 door automatic) sadly the GTR has to go. It has been extremely reliable and a joy to drive and own.

This GTR is heavily modified with a forged engine and nismo turbos (receipt of $10k just for engine alone see full spec below), P.A.R gear box (Straight cut Syncromesh gear set) (receipts for $6K), exedy heavy duty sports clutch (receipt for $2.2K). 3.5" Turbo back exhaust, upgraded front mount inter-cooler, 19 row oil cooler, oil/air catch can, upgraded fuel system external pump in boot, Apexi Power FC Computer, Apexi hand controller, Apexi ECV, PROFEC B2 boost controller, turbo timer, autometer gauges. Lightweight battery, new alternator, new clutch master cylinder and new slave cyliner, new water pump.

DVD player,

Genuine BBS Rims,

Probably some other mods I have forgotten.

Full Engine Specs:

RB26 – 2.7 Litre Engine

Piston to bore = 3 thou,

Big ends = 2 thou,

Arp head studs = 85 ft/lbs kit,

Cams trust in 264 9.1mm, ex 272 9.1mm,

CP pistons 88mm 8.5comp,

HKS step 2 conrods,

ACL race bearings, .25over

Head serviced and valves reseated, replaced seals,

Valve springs replaced with performance springs 1.70lbs over the nose,

Trust/Grex 264, 9.1 inlet cam, 272, 9.1 exhaust cam,

HKS cam wheels,

HKS head gasket 1.2mm MLS,

R34 crank with long oil drive and grub screwed oil galleries machined .25mm under,

2 thou clearance,

N1 oil pump,

Block sleeved relined, decked, bored to suit 88mm pistons, 3 thou clearance (the block cylinder liners were replaced to suit 88mm pistons as you can not just put 88mm pistons in a RB26 as there is not enough cylinder liner to support the piston, that is why this was done),

ARP head stud kit,

SPL fuel rail,

12 litre custom sump with trap doors,

2 Nismo turbos

Gearbox and clutch

P.A.R gear box (Straight cut Syncromesh gear set) (receipts for $6K), exedy heavy duty sports clutch (receipt for $2.2K).

I have all receipts for the major work.

Currently the front bottom lip is painted black and needs a touch up.

It’s putting out a very reliable 341kW at the wheels on a very safe conservative tune. Engine was built to handle a lot more HP which I was planning for later. For a genuine buyer with a deposit, I will start it from cold, warm it up and take you for a test drive and you can hear the engine note change after it warms up and feel the hp push you back in the passenger seat, before cooling it down and putting it back to sleep.

No test pilots. Not for the faint hearted. With this engine and gearbox combo its an absolute weapon (also the custom plates comes with the car). Swaps with cash adjustment for newish model 4 door autos welcome. Preference is to sell for cash and will not part out. All the work has been done just buy and drive it.

Asking: $24,000 or near offer

Phone: 0439 one six three 767

Photos:

post-41478-0-54605500-1404438912_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-77334600-1404439166_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-99181200-1404439205_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-33338000-1404439247_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-70357200-1404439284_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-74919200-1404439320_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-28950000-1404439354_thumb.jpg

post-41478-0-59051800-1404438335_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-06991900-1404438754_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-31156900-1404438820_thumb.jpg

post-41478-0-75971000-1404439461_thumb.jpg

Edited by tooslow
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
tooslow Explorer

tooslow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies guys. Its going to be very sad to sell the GTR.

It actually has 82,000km on the dash, the original post I had incorrectly typoed 85k.

And the DVD player is a Clarion touch screen with a remote control, (model #VRX486VD), I leave it to the new owner to get amp and subs of their choice as the previous owner kept his amps and subs. I am not into loud music when I drive so never bothered getting them. The engine and exhaust noise is more fun :)

It also has had some suspension work by the previous owner. I will have to check and see if I can find the receipts / details.

Here are a few more pics:

post-41478-0-94268300-1404524285_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-32500400-1404524086_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-86808000-1404524117_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-84978700-1404524141_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-05158900-1404524158_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-73923300-1404524186_thumb.jpgpost-41478-0-98395900-1404524212_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
tooslow Explorer

tooslow

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Fantastic car and mods ! Bargain price good luck with the sale

Thanks, priced to sell quickly. The longer it waits the more I will be tempted to try to keep her and somehow mange without a 2nd family car.

Gorgeous car.

Glws and free bump

Thanks

What's your definition of "newish model 4 door auto" ?

Beautiful car BTW

Anything really. What do you have in mind. I was looking at 2nd hand E39 BMWs, Mercs, Audis, Toyotas, HSVs, FPVs, Comodores, Falcons. Let me know what you have and see if it works for both of us. As long as its an auto and 4 doors so it can have 2 baby seats in the back :)

Edited by tooslow
Link to comment
Share on other sites
tooslow Explorer

tooslow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi, Looks nice. Please pm with details on your car, year, model, km, mods, and how much you are looking for.

UPDATE:

NO low ball offers, this GTR is already a bargain. Swaps (plus cash adjustment up or down) welcome for local cars only (4 door auto). So unless you are prepared to drive it to sydney please dont offer a trade. I cant do any deals unless I see your car.

Would you be interested in swaps with cash my way?

It's 4 door and auto ;)

6huouf.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • Neostead2000
      R35 OEM Injector dead times

      By Neostead2000 · Posted

      8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Oops my bad, here you go .
×
×
  • Create New...