Jump to content
SAU Community

25/30 Build Few Strange Issues.

menthol369
 Share

Recommended Posts

menthol369 Collaborator

menthol369

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, ive just built a 25/30 and im having a few issues with it.

ill list the parts as to give you the most info i can

Bog stock rb30 block (didnt shave it)
sump breather

Head: r33 s2 VCT ( re seated valves did valve stem seals, shaved to get it dead straight.)
MSLR 1.3mm head gasket

Z32 afm
z32 nistune

Oil cooler
660cc Jecs injectors
DW300 300l/h fuel pump
KKR 660x turbo
NZ steampipe mani
45mm hyper gate
standard cooling system ( HR31 skyline)

So to get this thing going im running it n/a ( wanna make sure nothing is wrong with it before i cram boost into it)
It has an rb25de tune with adjustments made for z32 and 660cc injectors.
AFrs are around 14-15 on idle and 12-11 on WOT

The car gets warm real quick, but water temp never exceeds 90 deg
the issue im having is that the turbo and mani are getting real hot after a casual drive ( havent had a thermometer on it but its radiates heat asif youve been hammering it for awhile)
The turbo leaks oil out the front housing ( which i assume the heat has killed the seals?)
a crack has also formed on the exhaust housing ( coudlve been there before but im unsure.)

the cooling system is also pressurising a hell of alot even though the temp is at 85deg (shown by nistune) im assuming the coolant is boiling in the turbo creating the pressure in the system.

Turbo has more than avg shaft play aswell as the oil that leaks out the front of it.
Oh and with the rad cap off if you give the engine a rev the water will rise up and out of the rad.. but not bubble. and no oil is in the water. Oil is clean
so my question is WTF IS GOING ON?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445223-2530-build-few-strange-issues/
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

What?

How is it running na?

Where is the afm?

The radiator cap off rev situation seems normal.

Did you have the turbo just free spinning? That would probably have over sped it.

Edited by Ben C34
menthol369 Collaborator

menthol369

Posted
  • Author
Posted

just have piping running to the afm as youd see it on an n/a setup

turbo was free spinning for the first while of driving, but the gate now has the springs removed and it is open. didnt change the sound of the turbo much at higher RPM.

i wouldnt of thought that n/a would of produced enough gas to over spin the turbo.
the previous car this was on (rb25) it hit full boost at 4400 or something, hell of alot more gas when there is compressed air added to the equation.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Spinning against no resistance means it would have spun heaps fast. All of the exhaust would have gone through the turbine as the wastegate wouldn't have opened.

I suspect it caused the damage.

I wouldn't have done it. I hope it's not too bad.

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted (edited)

It would have overspun to no end. But there would be almost zero load on the shaft and bearings anyway. That's not an area that people are knowledgeable in so you may or may not have f**ked the turbo. Hard to say

it was 2nd hand anyway and has a crack in the rear housing, oil in the front housing and a fair whack of shaft play. Why are you considering using this turbo? buy a freshie if you want it to run properly and reliably; who knows, this one could spit the comp wheel into your intake and lunch the motor too.

forget about the water rising in the radiator with a rev, that's normal. Pressure in the cooling system is also normal, to an extent.

In terms of moving forward with your project, I think you should set it up how you intend to run it (ie turbo). Install all your proper intake piping, cooler and AFM piping then just tune it. You've got a good base project just needs a bit of tweaking.... that's if your turbo is okay, personally I wouldn't use it but you may be more inclined to do so

Edited by Blackkers
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AdiR34
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Keeper
      S A U N S W Club Membership

      By Keeper · Posted

      Got you mate. Check your email!
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • niZmO_Man
      For Sale 2003 Nissan Skyline V35 GT350 Premium

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      You need to put location and price
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...