Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You couldn't be more wrong! If you're a straight line hero sure an evo may be "boring" but if you like cornering at speeds that boggle your mind and g forces that have your face stuck to window it NEVER gets boring! I've owned a crazy responsive 336kw GTST and now built my evo up to around the 300-320kw zone (no dyno yet) and the evo is alot faster and responsive than my skyline was.. I still drive out of corners in the evo shaking my head thinking WOW with the grip it has Nearly 2 years later.

Just got out of it then and came out of a roundabout in 2nd gear fed it on and it started spinning all 4's and drifting slightly. Boring is sitting around spinning wheels going nowhere IMO ;)

Depends what you want..

I was 100% keen to go buy a Evo9.. got taken for a spin in one with BBK Full and 272 Cosworth cams, etc.. got out and thought that while it was quick it was pretty boring and didnt feel "dramatic".. i think its the close ratios in the box

Went and bought another GTR.. spinning 275 tyres in 2nd gear just by hitting boost is considerably more exciting..

Also how shit is the suspension and tyre setup for 260rwkw to be undriveable on the street?

I used to regularly drive (and be passanger in) my best mates old 250rwkw VL (rb25 + hks 2830), sure it'll light up 2nd and change lanes.. just make sure no ones around when you give it full throttle.. he used to daily it perfectly fine funnily enough.. had shit VL suspension (king springs and flogged out monroe shocks) and china 205s on the rear..

As for "nannas corolla" getting ahead of you cos you have 300rwkw.. you guys all realise that acceleration doesnt automatically mean flatten the throttle to the floor? Theres varying degrees between 0% and WOT..

Lag for that power level is measured in a fraction of a second, lets not get too ahead of ourselves talking on the net.. the reality is full boost by 4k isnt laggy on the street.. its a 2.5L 6 they rev fast.. 4cyl turbos kick in later in rev range but rev faster.. same same

If youre bored, shoot for 300rwkw..

You'll love it

If you dont, sell the turbo setup and bitch out and get a smaller one.. there will be almost no money lost and you'll know for sure.. or listen to people who drive MX5s lol

So you didn't actually drive the car?

Depends what you want..

I was 100% keen to go buy a Evo9.. got taken for a spin in one with BBK Full and 272 Cosworth cams, etc.. got out and thought that while it was quick it was pretty boring and didnt feel "dramatic".. i think its the close ratios in the box

Went and bought another GTR.. spinning 275 tyres in 2nd gear just by hitting boost is considerably more exciting..

Funny reading everyone's opinion!

Power is addictive that's for sure, and part of the thrill is taming that extra power I guess.

I've always found that around 200kw makes for a well balanced street car, which is quick through twisties and comes into power quickly. Up to 250-270kw really isn't much faster driving on roads when your driving from say 60-100km/h braking and accelerating, if it's a laggy 250kw then it will be slower.

So you didn't actually drive the car?

Nope.. didnt need to..

Handed over cash having only riding shotgun for the last 4 cars Ive bought, and sold the last 3 cars Ive owned without prospective buyers driving them..

Evos didnt live upto the internet hype for me.. and I rocked up ready to buy.. the general internet concensus of them is awesome; they dont break, they handle ridiculous, close ratio box, great stock brakes, modern tech, etc.. dunno just didnt do it for me

Either way, youre obviously happy with yours!

Also how shit is the suspension and tyre setup for 260rwkw to be undriveable on the street?

Not sure if you're referring to my previous posting, but i guess it's all personal preference and how much risk each person is willing to take.

I'm soft and cautious on the roads nowadays so to me 260 is already too much (even though my car grips full throttle in first), then again there are other people who have said 400 is fine... must have temptation resistance of a jedi if you ask me haha.

If it hooks up in 1st then thats the definition of perfectly fine for the street.. no ones forcing you to go WOT through school zones

The more power you have, usually the more respect for the vehicles ability you have..

If you drive like a P plater moron youll be a moron with 100 or 400wkw

  • Like 2

tbh, 300kW is a little too much for the street..

I reckon around 250kW is a good number - provided you have a nice diff, shocks that are not blown, some decent anti roll bars and happy days!

If it hooks up in 1st then thats the definition of perfectly fine for the street.. no ones forcing you to go WOT through school zones

The more power you have, usually the more respect for the vehicles ability you have..

If you drive like a P plater moron youll be a moron with 100 or 400wkw

Reminds me of something Jeremy Clarkson said on Top Gear the other night

the more power you have, the slower you go...

i had my car at 190kws, used to bash it around everywhere, then jumped to 240, still bashed it around everywhere, then 300, thats when the bashing stopped I was a lot ore cautious....Then I ripped it all out and went back to 190kws...then bashed it around faster than ever... :rofl:

My 240 was a bit laggy, but i reckon around 220-240 with stock like response and good driving skills is def where its at.as 190kws just lacked in the top end..and 240 will too, How often are you winding out 4th gear though....cause even with good tyres 300kws can light up 3rd at 120+k if you have a heavy foot..Sure you can change up early and stay in your torque band of course, and still be fast but you throttle isnt as responsive in 4th as it is in 3rd

its all a balancing act and again it just depends what you are wanting to do, if traffic light races and skids is all you want, or you plan on some hektik drifting then yeah you want to be up in the 300s, if precision on the street and twisty tracks is what your chasing then less is definately more..And only when you ahve exhausted yoru skills in the a lower power band should you start chasing more..

But, 300kws on street, even if you're not the quickest car out there ,its fun...lots of fun..And If you just want to have some fun just do it :D

cause even with good tyres 300kws can light up 3rd at 120k if you ahve a heavy foot, you can change up early and stay i yoru torque band of course, and still be faster but you throttle isnt as responsive in 4th as it is in 3rd

Time for a real diff :)

VLSD diffs are gaids

But I think you have to ask yourself, are bored because you have driven the car to its limit and it wont go any faster , or are you bored because you're just not getting that Boost rush that you get when you first buy a skyline...

Time for a real diff :)

VLSD diffs are gaids

yeah this is true...lol...I never did get around to getting a new diff... :whistling:

and look modern ECUS have heaps of cool features like boost by gear and such, so with the right setup you could definatley make 300-400kws very managable...And you can always turn the boost down...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
    • The ones in brackets are the first stages of tightening. I usually aim for the middle of the range. They give a range because it's actually not that critical to hit exactly the right bolt tension. Enough is enough, and too much is too much, and the range given is inside that range. Half of the bolts in the suspension are problematic for putting a torque wrench on anyway, so just get done up to mechanic tight  and spanner checked a week later.
×
×
  • Create New...