Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have done it from start to finish.

Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't, Don't.

Just sell and buy a turbo car. Seems like a hassle? Its far, far less hassle than going the alternate direction.

  • Like 1

Whether or not you are attached to the car, that isn't what the thread is about. You asked how hard and if anyone has done it. Someone has, and said don't. You don't want to stuff around with turboing an N/A. If you like the car, remove all the parts you like about it, and replace them on a turbo one.

What you mean by legally registered...i know it's easier to sell and buy knew one but I just can't let go of this car ...

Let it go, the car is most likely what you want it to be - perspective is required.

You just don't know it yet as you haven't gone turbo.

Lets be completely clear here, in the nicest possible way - Anything you've done to your N/A can be done to the Turbo car.

All the hassle of doing this, moving bits over is FAR LESS than trying to turbo your N/A.

Especially if you want to do it legally (which is an engine swap, ecu swap, brakes swap, in other words... you're replacing all the car bits except the chassis)

SO what do you want to do

Replace some wheels, or interior bits.. or replace the entire guts of the car to make it... uh... a turbo car.

Its far easier to replace the car, and believe me when you do it, you keep finding little "non turbo bits" that aren't the same as the turbo bits. These appear often, dumb things like plugs, different wiring which may not be turbo spec, random bits you buy online you find don't REALLY fit when you are told they should.

It's a pain, a stupid constant pain you live with.

People saying "sell it and buy a turbo" aren't being dismissive - They've heard it time and time again. Same with people who end up putting rb26's in GTS4's etc, it's always "just save and buy the GTR"

It's all about saving on headaches in the future which will occur. Far bigger headaches and heartaches then selling and buying a car that's already made.

  • Like 1

It's really not that hard/expencive if your just going to put stock hot n cold side, using the standard oil, water feeds (they're just blanked out) then add some sort of Ecu couple other little thingg I did this on a 33 year's ago. The issue then is suspension and breaking are below standard and you'll be limited to low (5-7psi) boost to protect the motor. It's a great little upgrade if that's as far as you go but if you get the bug and you probably will you'll want to do more and then you may as well throw all that money in the bin sell it and get a turbo.

It's really not that hard/expencive if your just going to put stock hot n cold side, using the standard oil, water feeds (they're just blanked out) then add some sort of Ecu couple other little thingg I did this on a 33 year's ago. The issue then is suspension and breaking are below standard and you'll be limited to low (5-7psi) boost to protect the motor. It's a great little upgrade if that's as far as you go but if you get the bug and you probably will you'll want to do more and then you may as well throw all that money in the bin sell it and get a turbo.

By which time you won't be able to sell it at anything near what an N/A skyline sells for because it's unable to get a roadworthy certificate or be legal on the roads.

If you're on your P's... wait till you're off your P's...

If you're off your P's... sell it and buy a turbo and you can MAKE money AND have a much faster car with all the other stuff that turbos have (proper brakes, suspension etc)...

Alright thanks guys but how won't the car b able to get road worthy ??? My current car has coilovers already ... So brakes won't b to much of an issue to change .... I really won't b able to let this car go ... And money isn't a problem ... From what I heard it's easy to turbo a 25gt but how bad can the problems get and still don't understand how I can't get it registered ...

Thanks guys big help :)

If money is no issue buy a better car.

If you don't understand the registration and even insurance issues then the conversion is not for you.

That lost by Kinkstaah was perfect and summed it all up.

So you can't let car go because it had coilovers? Or something more special? First root was in it?

I really don't get why people get so attached to some cars. why not get attached to your first good car?

Ring up the registration department and ask them what the deal is with a turbo conversion.

Well for one the body has had a shit load of work done to it .. And I don't want to be wondering around buying new cars I actually want to keep the car and work on it do things myself to it... If it's really that hard and bad ill just leave it n/a... That y I asking these questions ....

That's the thing, and being polite as possible....

.....anything you have done up to now is easier than going (legally) turbo.

going (legally) turbo requires a full engine swap in Victoria.

this means you also need to fit GTT brakes (I got away with R33 GTST brakes, as they fit the NA R34 (gtt is different)

this means you're also likely to need a different gearbox (ultimately)

this means you're also likely to need a different diff (dat N/A open diff)

this means you'll need a different ECU

this means you may or may not need different looms because new things exist/old things don't.

My problems all started because I got sold a NA+T which I had mistakenly thought was a GTT (new to skylines at the time).

"I'll just modify it to get what I had paid for" as chasing up the seller wasn't feasible at the time/was considerably later on/seller was dead.

This isn't a path you want to go down.

Sell the car/drive a factory GTT and you'll be like, um, yeah, this takes exactly zero labor for a wildly better, factory result that needs exactly no involvement.

But hey if you want, I'm trying to sell my wreck. feel free to buy all my parts, but you'll immediately decide its wildly expensive, even if you DIY. "There's got to be an easier way" you'll think, which is simply to buy the GTT and retrofit or enjoy its different body kit or what have you.

Well thanks mate at least u explained it to me in more detail I know it's a hard thing to get through my head main thing I am concerned about it the engine swap ... I still got 2 years of p plates so give me a good time to think ... ... Thanks mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...