Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone have any tips about removing the side plug in the gearbox?
It has a 1/2 inch square hole in it which I assumed was for a 1/2 inch breaker bar but I couldn't get it undone for the life of me!

Does anyone know a better way to undo it? or should I just take it to a mechanic so he can do it on a hoist? (I only have ramps)

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445398-r33-det-gearbox-help/
Share on other sites

^Tried a piece of pipe on the end of the breaker bar to extend the leverage?

Warning! Undo the filler first - you don't want to drain it and then find you can't get any oil back into it (maybe you are referring to the filler anyway!?).

  • Like 2

Good tip!

If you find the 1/2" end is rounding off the plug a little you can buy 13mm square drives which will fit more snugly. And you could try heating the plug with a torch.

But yes, sometimes not having the room to swing a long bar means you just can't DIY it without getting on a hoist :(

  • Like 1

You can fill the gearbox through the shifter hole if you can't get the fill plug out - just need to know how much to put in. Consensus seems to be around 3.8 litres, which just happens to be the same as 4 quarts if you buy Redline oil.

  • Like 1

Thanks for the help guys!

Yeah I meant filler, sorry.

Unfortunately there's no room for adding a pipe on the end, but I dare say that I'd end up causing some damage forcing it like that.

I do have a little blow torch, might give that a try.

I leant a long time ago when I was about 16 to never drain the oil on anything until you know you can fill it Haha.

I'll look into the 13mm square drives too, always good to have a backup.

If all else fails I'll go the mechanic route or fill it through the shifter hole.

Thanks for all the info guys!

Filling through the shifter hole I find is much easier anyway. When you get the filler hole loosened, move the car to a flat surface then remove the plug. Fill through shifter hole until it just starts to overflow through the filler. Then it's full.

Saves buying a pump or trying to use a funnel and some hose :)

  • Like 1

Just remove the bit of the console with the boot attached. Remove the ashtray, remove 1 screw behind the ashtray the unclip the plastic trim that holds the boot. Under that is a rubber boot, held on by 4 bolts, and under that boot is another small rubber boot, which just lifts off. Remove the circlip & the shifter lifts out. Getting it back in is a bit of a job, as the bush tends to move sideways when trying to mate it - persist & it will go in. Filling is easy with a funnel or the top of a coke bottle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
×
×
  • Create New...