Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats why i wrote it, id rather say the truth and let you know i am biased, i could have said nothing, but i know the product and how good it is and stand by it.

Tested and supplied many people racing various motor sports classes with them without issues, on the street they are fantastic, drifters, rally drivers, street track cars etc.

And as many people who use them tell me, the best bang for buck performance pad out there, people who have been racing for decades still demand them.

That wasn't a dig mate, that was providing context. As in, I know your opinion will be a bit biased (and that's OK) but tell me what you think anyway.

Have you done/seen any testing vs the A1RM?

If the TRW are as good as you say that would make them the performance pad bargain of the century almost.

Edit: WASN'T a dig lol, what a typo.

Edited by ActionDan

Dan for the coin you will find Lucas pretty much as Peter advises and a good thing worth trying.

I found them effective on an R33 and they do not fade or go away even though they smoke like mad when you come back into the pits after a run. They are soft and you'd consider them a consumable item, but definitely not rotor-eaters.

Being soft, how long do they last?

Those QFMs have done A couple of DECA's, 3-4 track days and a little street driving.

BUT I'd consider either them or me harsh on rotors (but they were only vented/slotted RDA's).

R chassis is going to be different, considerably heavier car with higher bias towards front than the S chassis.

Work on about 2:1 consumption ratio front:rear for track use, so replace rears every second set of fronts.

Track use only I recently saw the fronts gone after effectively two events (double entered for one weekend), so 2 practice days, and 4 track days. 240 track km.

They do need to be cooked as described, and allowed to cool. Then they are damn good.

It's not like you are spending lots of money trying them out, so there's not a lot of risk involved and they are kind on rotors. And I've been using stock type non-slotted RDA rotors, nothing fancy.

Cheers for the feedback. How many ks/how long to cook them as my car is track only.

I'm only considering the Intima because it's a mate with a shop that's wanting me to test/review them and those prices are good compared to standard.

Edited by ActionDan

Go out and do a couple of sight seer laps, light braking only. You're just checking car and track for issues/conditions anyway. Then come in. 10-15mins break.

Second time out, couple more laps with moderate braking. Then come in. Likely a bit of wispy smoke. 10-15mins break.

Third time out, couple more laps 80-90% effort. Then come in. Should be a fair bit of smoke for a few minutes. 20-25mins break, check tyre pressures, wheel nuts, fuel, oil etc and you're good to go.

I have seen them bedded with one session of moderate use. Seem to get long/soft pedal and lots of smoke. Rest them for 30-40 mins and then go racing. Might not get as long pad life but still does the job. Really comes down to driver discipline and what type of track day or event it is you're running in.

Hmm. Next event is lap dash but only club event with close mates (if I make this event)

So I can tool around if I like.

Looking at that, it would take half a day's worth of sessions at a test and tune :( When there's cars, bikes and open wheelers you only get 1x 20min session per hour.

So that adds a few $$ to the price really.

Edited by ActionDan

I think all pads require some sort of bedding procedure if you want the best from them.

And when you look at the life expectancy, it's only now and then when you need to go through all that.

Either way, I don't go to an event without a couple of short, moderate pace laps before coming back to look stuff over anyway.

How have you treated the QFM pads, and did the supplier or manufacturer recommend any procedure or just go hammer them from the get-go?

Edited by Dale FZ1

Have you used the intima John?

Dale: I bedded them in as requested which was a few 80 to 40 brakes then a few 120 to 40 then a few 120 to 0 stops increasing in pedal pressure then good to go, the car was still road registered then.

In terms of treatment i'd say I've been harsh on them in terms of going till obvious fade then backing off. Vents helped.

I now have standard sca brand dot 4 fluid though too and with the rsr tyres the pads are probably no longer the weak point.

Interesting that they didn't squeel for me until the wear indicator.

Edited by ActionDan

I've used Bendix Ultimate at Eastern Creek South Circuit, after about 3 laps the brakes were cooked.

Then I upgraded to QFM A1RMs used them at my first ever outing at Wakefield Park, held up about 3/4 laps then after that the car needed pedal to floor to stop (mind you I'm not doing any amazing times either)

Then I was recommended by a few EVO boys to try out Intima SR - been using them since and they hold up for me on Wakefield Park.. the initial bite isn't that great but they don't fade like the other two pads. I could do 7/8 laps without any major fade - however that was with ~200kW and only topped at 168km/h down the straight.

Since then, I've probably got over 300kW+ with my home brew tune, so I thought I should pick up some Project Mu HC+ to up my comfort levels for when I return to Wakefield..

Just as a FYI... Project Mu have replaced HC+ with HC800 - and best part, they're cheaper :)

$179 for the fronts

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/pad_hcplus.php

Not sure if they will be the same as the infamous HC+

Went and checked the car, turn out there's still well over half the fronts, so that must be the second set of fronts and the original rears I just used up.

I'll go for the Intima's (partially to help a mate) I think, but will wear out what's in there first.

> Then I upgraded to QFM A1RMs used them at my first ever outing at Wakefield Park, held up about 3/4 laps then after that the car needed pedal to floor to stop (mind you I'm not doing any amazing times either)
Were the pads gone or did you boil the fluid? I find using the cheapo 280 degree Nulon fluid goes before the A1RMs on my car. I have basic ducting to my front brakes tho.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...