Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone, attempt 2 at posting this thread.
Tip: Don’t be trawling Wasteland threads and post something right before alt-tabbing back and trying to post a for sale thread that’s massive.

TLDR: Buy the engine that did this, thanks. Rest of complete setup for sale if you or someone does. Can just bolt it into a R33 or R34 GTT and save moneys (like, everything). Obviously could put the engine anywhere you can put a RB25. Very negotiable if you want to buy the entire thing and bolt it or re-sell it or what have you.

https://www.facebook.com/ChequeredTuning/posts/718855688158365

I recently ‘finished’ my R34 setup, finally, after about 6 years of crap.
Then I drove it into an Embankment at low speed and bent the chassis and pretty much nothing else, so everything in this list is 100% working and very near new. However, it was enough to write off the chassis.

I will only separate parts if the engine is sold. If the engine is not sold, I’ll get the lot put back into a different shell. In this way I’m letting rajab decide whether I go GTT or something else.

Note: In car and running, can physically show you if in Victoria.

Engine:
BC 2.9L Stroker Kit http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0238
Tomei Type B Poncams
Tomei Exhaust Cam Gear
Nitto Custom Forged Pistons
Ported/Polished Head (unsure on exact flow. clearly works though, and can see the exhaust side is slightly larger than stock manifold ports)
Spitfire Coilpacks
JUN Oil Pump
New Gaskets, Bearings
when rebuilt
New Idler, Tensioner, Timing, Water Pump when rebuilt
Cometic 1.8mm Metal Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
Xspurt 1400cc Ethanol Injectors
Turbosmart Kompact Plumb Back BOV

EARLS Fuel Filter

Totally legal in Vic. Totally legal anywhere else, too. Vicroads will give you no problems with this.

Engine has done 15,000kms since built.

As before, can see running.

Has been 1 day since dyno runs. Yes, I bent the chassis the day after. This was sad.

I have all the reciepts, emails back and forth, all the info you're likely to want, though really the proof is in the dyno sheet.

Seems to love timing (running a lot, no pinging)

Seems to love boost (running a lot, no pinging or weirdness)

It's about as solid as any engine you'll ever get built by someone who doesn't call themselves "Nissan"

It also won't take 6 months of stuffing around, waiting, waiting, waiting, waiting, waiting and so on to be built, put together, put in the car, run in, etc. It's all done. Put it in and drive.

If you buy the ECU and Turbo and everything else as its for sale, you won't even need a damn tune. Ever. lol

I'd love $12k for it. I'm negotiable. That seems like a high number. If you like, google the parts listed above and ask your local engine builder for a quote on labour. Then add the cost of waiting for it to all arrive, be put together and so on. It's OK. I'll wait. But I'm pretty negotiable if need be. But not stupidly so. 3k will not get you this engine and I'll just buy a stock auto GTT sedan for about $3 and get it all put in there and get back to 330RWKW at 3500 RPM.

Lets entertain the thought that someone buys the engine. If so, everything below this sentence is also for sale. it's also very new.

Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 (this is a glorious ECU)

Haltech Wideband CAN Controller (controls AFR on the fly, 200 times a second. Has stuff built in to stop it doing weird things and blowing your engine. You can also set it to max adjust like 1% if you're super worried). Not that you need it, because the tune in the ECU had this OFF when it got the AFR mentioned on the Chequred tuning link.

Full E-Flex sensor. Put whatever you want in the tank, man.

Garrett GTX3076R

Turbosmart Hypergate 45mm - This is welded onto the turbine housing. This setup clearly works. If you hate it, you could always put on a kando housing for $200 and mount this wherever you want with whatever manifold you want.

Walbro 460 LPH Fuel Pump - complete with super wiring!

Scotty Custom dump+screamer made by the venerable scotty nm35 - 2x45 degree stainless bends instead of the usual 90. Goes to 5in cat. So much flow! Has seperate 2in screamer which could be plumed back into the cat if you ask nicely. I was going to do this, but maaaay have found myself making this thread instead. Shit.

Suspension and Grip things

Front and Rear Bilstein Shocks

Eibach front and rear main springs.

Eibach rear helper springs

Coil over kit x4 so you can raise or lower the height and be fully sick if you so wish (I didn't)

Custom Front Strut Tops - Allows more travel in the front. Just incase joe cop decides to push down on your bonnet. Or say, you go over a bump.

Whiteline Caster Kit

Whiteline Front Camber kit
Whiteline Rear Camber Kits x 2

Bump Stop Kits X 2

R34 Series II Helical Diff and half shafts - Someone said these were rare. Works well!

Rear Subframe alignment kit (pineapples - they work!)

Whiteline 24mm Front Sway Bar (BNF24Z)
Whiteline 24mm Rear Sway Bar (BNR11XXZ)
Heavy Duty Swaybar Links for the above

Brand new Nitto NT05 Tyres - 245/40/18 and 275/40/18 on F/R respectively. Ok, they've done maybe 100kms.
Autech 8piston 356MM Front brake kit.

People talk bla bla bla about suspension all the time, but I was able to go WoT in 1st gear (auto, remember, 1st gear is a bit longer) with dyno results posted above and not lose grip. I would say its worth spending the money and not getting BC's and would do it again. Or you could save half the cost and buy mine. If you buy my engine. Which is again, saving a lot.

I also have a really, really, really built Auto transmission for aforementioned R34. I know you're reading, yawning, thinking "man, lolz, auto" but it has its own ECU, two transmission coolers, and is connected to the paddles on the R34 steering wheel. Touch the button, insta shift goodness. Touch the button when you're cruising around town, insta shift smoothness you can't feel. Do it at 7000RPM at WoT and you may or may not need spine surgery.

But considering you fell asleep reading that sentence about automatic transmissions, whatever, buy the engine. Or not.

May seem like a lot, cost a lot more to begin with. Be financially responsible by buying the fruits of my financial irresponsibility!

PM me, PM me now!

Edited by Kinkstaah

That's a terrible story Greg.

I for one am ready to take advantage of your misfortune should you get to the point of selling the various bits. I am interested in the diff and driveshafts (assuming you meant the driveshafts when you said halfshafts).

cheers

And the seagulls come to pick up the chips. :P

gearbok and tcm if you want to part. or just the tcm =D

Alvin, I already shotgunned the TCU. Get in line. ;) haha.

interested in;

Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 with long loom?

Turbosmart Hypergate 45mm

Possibly

Walbro 460 LPH Fuel Pump

Scotty Custom dump+screamer

I'm in melb so makes it easy.

That really really sucks Greg :/

(I think the 'easiest' option, if you can get over the heartbreak, would be to lift the gear into another chassis as you say... There's a GTT one going for <6K in the classifieds)

Anyway, someone buy this engine, glws.

Well it's good to know if I manage to sell the engine, the rest of the bits should sell in approximately 0.001 of a second.

I'd probably take less than 12 for the engine. When I say "engine" mean everything connected to the engine but not including the turbo and anything from that point onwards. I do realise that not many people just cart around that kind of money for an engine unless they were about to pull the trigger on their own build.

I have receipts for parts only inside that thing for considerably more than that. Given it'd cost $0 to assemble it, as it's already going tis technically a good deal, but at the same time, yeah, building any engine is an expensive venture.

If all else fails, I just need to see someone selling an auto R34 GT-FOUR and I'll just drop both cars off at Scottys place......

hey mate whats the prices on each item

Whiteline Caster Kit

Whiteline Front Camber kit
Whiteline Rear Camber Kits x 2

Bump Stop Kits X 2

Rear Subframe alignment kit

Whiteline 24mm Front Sway Bar (BNF24Z)
Whiteline 24mm Rear Sway Bar (BNR11XXZ)
Heavy Duty Swaybar Links

And the seagulls come to pick up the chips. :P

Alvin, I already shotgunned the TCU. Get in line. ;) haha.

meh, they're not that expensive to buy new anyway, its the tuning part that's a bitch.

12k+ for a long motor seems a bit high dude.

There was a killer complete setup with rebult rb25 and rebuilt box for sale a few weeks ago on gumtree for 12,5k.

I get it costs big bucks to build these things, but based on a good 8+ months of looking before starting my build think you might have to drop that price to get a sale. After all that hard work, you might be better off buying a rolling shell and keeping it.

It wouldn't be the long motor, it'd be everything in the engine bay. Could literally bolt whatever you want, or use my working bits. The more people want, the cheaper it gets. I'd definitely be picking this one over a 25 for 12k.

And I'm negotiable, and I would ship it. I'm only concerned as I wouldn't like to have it get damaged while being shipped or something which would be rather bad for all parties (hence the 'can see it running!') thing.

I realise the price is high, and I don't mind murdering that price if someone actually makes an offer. Doesn't have to be here, send a PM. You may be surprised on just how much I can throw at people when it comes to convenience. Do some tire kicking. I can attest my PM box is full of people who want everything except the engine. Buy the wreck and you'll make the cost of the wreck back in frigging extra bits people want.

I'm quite aware that the number of people who are like "oh, I am about to forge an engine for a GTT or GTST or Stagea" is quite low. It just doesn't happen often. People seem to build RB26's which are arguably not as good as a Neo anyway.

Failing that, it'll go into a GTT or GT Four (if I can find one for sale...)

I don't mean to keep bumping my thread - Send a PM with a ridiculous offer and see what happens.

I have low expectations of selling it, but you never know ;)

Wow... That long motor would be a nice addition to my engine bay :woot: but bank account says :no:

Sorry mate, I don't have the original parts, original cams, pistons, crank etc, was living in an apartment with no garage when the engine got built, so I didn't keep those for storage reasons.

  • 2 months later...

Sorry for future searchers (thought I updated this)

None of this is available. I ended up getting it put into a new body.

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Good point, I think you can get black ceramic coating as well, so that could be two birds with one stone
    • If I was you I would fix them up, as far as I know the 400R bumper is unobtainable now, the rear bumper and side skirts cost a fortune. The look of the car with that body kit on is awesome! Subtle but aggressive looking, how long have you owned her and done much in the way of modifications?
    • More so heat management so you don't melt stuff around the turbo, especially if you decide to hit the track.
    • What's the difference in wrapping it in this stuff in relation to overheating the 304L stainless dump material and having it cracking at the welds from overheating the material? It would well on my exhaust manifold as it is some fancy pants cast material, but, I've used similar stuff before and it is problematic to get it looking neat as you need to fix it with "all" of the SS ties The stick on stuff is just for the firewall and OEM heat sheild I believe that, as I am only going to be running low boost and not pushing the turbo too hard (hence asking about the differences between a 0.64 and 0.82) extreme heat in the dump shouldn't really be a issue I am happy to talk metallurgy about a 304L material and what makes it crack
    • Nice. Straight and dent free is what you want. The rest is easier to clean up.
×
×
  • Create New...