Jump to content
SAU Community

Ecu Selection For Rb20

ali-stain

By ali-stain,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ali-stain Rookie

ali-stain

Posted
Posted

Im currently upgrading my 32 GT-ST with a high mount, ffp and the rest, and was intending to install a power fc D-Jetro.. However I've recently found they aren't made for rb20, I'm not a ecu expert at all, but I hear you can use an RB25 or an RB26 pfc with some rewiring however it defeats the purpose of plug and play, map and O2 sensor etc. what is the best way to go about the issue? Are there any other known brands of ecu within a decent price range for the rb20 which will allow map, O2 sensor, and plug and play?

Any help is appreciated, thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445614-ecu-selection-for-rb20/
Share on other sites
XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

I was going to say the same as all the above monkeys. Notwithstanding the requirement to run a MAP sensor.

I would ignore the requirement to run MAP and just go Nistune + big enough AFM.

.....who you calling a monkey?

... all though we do like bannanas! ha ha!!

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Keep it simple. Power Fc. Easy to tune by just about any tuner. No messing around with std ECU. 10mins to install and start tuning.

Nistune is a good backup option if you cant find a PowerFc but I would be grabbing one of these http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/444035-for-sale-r32-gts-t-power-fc-ecu/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...