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Polishing Black

srb 33

By srb 33,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

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Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

I can't remember what brand but a more expensive brand of polish that you can find fairly easily at auto one or repco kind of places first. Did the whole car then a week later did it with that turtle wax stuff which leaves a big pile of silicone on it then a week later did that again. Looked schmick. I'm sure there are more expensive products out there that people swear by but this has worked for me.

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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Don't cut and polish the paint your self.

I had a sherbrook dark green commodore with bad buff/swirl marks from a respray.

I was unable to get them out myself, and the places I did try for some reason it made the paint dullish.

Send it to a detailer, they will get it looking nice.

Then just wash, polish then wax it and it will be kept nice. :rofl:

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SKY031 Grand Master

SKY031

Posted
Posted
what do people think of 3m cutting compound and waxes?

I don't think very highly of any DIY cutting compound.

(Including Meguiars)

It doesn't take a lot of cutting to break through the clearcoat.

Once you have penetrated the clearcoat, there is no going back.

It looks bloody awful, and you're up for a full respray.

You may think.. "once or twice a year can't hurt"...... but it does.

Over the period of 5 years thats 10 cuts, and bye bye paintwork. :Oops:

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maccattack Proficient

maccattack

Posted
Posted

I've had a couple of black cars (including my GTR) and have found that in full sunlight, you never seem to completely get rid of the swirling left from polishing / waxing. Turtle wax is bloody hard to apply and remove, but I still believe it is one of the hardest waxes around - lasts forever. I generally will use Turtle once or twice a year, then use a good canauba the rest of the time. I have been using Mothers California Gold cake wax and have found it as good as any. Best way to get rid of the swirls is to wax and buff (by hand) then buff again using a clean polish cloth. If the car is not overly dirty, simply chamois then buff - keeps the waxes lasting longer.

Unless your paintwork is relatively new (ie: with a deep clear coat), then you will be fighting an uphill battle to get it looking perfect (in full sunlight).

Live with the fact that it looks awsome in half light and just bloody good in full sunlight.

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maccattack Proficient

maccattack

Posted
Posted

So long as your paint has fully cured, you shouldn't have any problems in waxing it.

The wax won't damage the paint at all, and if it has been clear coated, you shouldn't have much swirling. It is preferable to do it by hand as opposed to a machine buff, as this tends to leave more regular marks which are easily seen. As mentioned previously, buff, buff, buff. Use a canauba as this is a much softer wax and easy to polish out. Also it doesn't leave that white residue around badges and trims like some of the other waxes.

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