Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I priced up some BC Golds for $1495NZD, plus $500NZD for the certification to make them legal, when I found some Jamex springs for $299NZD delivered that will give me a 40mm drop.

The seller (Jamex NZ) says there are no problems with using these as they are legal (no cert needed, direct replacement etc) and are fine with standard shocks - even saying they have never had issues with any of their springs being used on standard height shocks.

I understand the attraction of coilvers, but I don't think I NEED that kind of adjustability. I just don't wanna wreck my ride or injure anyone by using lowering springs alone.

Are they really that bad?

P.S. At $400+ a corner to replace only the shocks(KYB) it is worth going to coilovers, but only if I need to replace them.

OEM shocks can be had for significantly less than $400 per corner!

Think amayama.com or similar.
I can possibly get information for you as someone just purchased a swag of OEM suspension components (including all 4 shocks) and the total was just over $700 delivered.

What is involved in the Certification for Coilovers? Is this for some kind of external/independant testing?

I'm curious, as the main stumbling block to engineering BC coilovers in NSW (Australia) is the absence of material data & testing info from the parent manufacturer.
If I had this kind of information; I could provide it to an engineer, and he'd be happy to sign them off.

OEM shocks can be had for significantly less than $400 per corner!

Think amayama.com or similar.

I can possibly get information for you as someone just purchased a swag of OEM suspension components (including all 4 shocks) and the total was just over $700 delivered.

What is involved in the Certification for Coilovers? Is this for some kind of external/independant testing?

I'm curious, as the main stumbling block to engineering BC coilovers in NSW (Australia) is the absence of material data & testing info from the parent manufacturer.

If I had this kind of information; I could provide it to an engineer, and he'd be happy to sign them off.

Getting a cert is easy (all my mods are certed/legal) but it costs around $550 so you tend to do it once for all the mods.

Over here the cert process is remarkably sensible.It is run by the Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association (not a government body) . Certifiers have a lot of discretion and although there is a guide manual which mandates some things much is left up to their experience and knowledge. For example they will pass Cusco camber arms but not some of the dodgy cheapo versions although there is not a list of approved arms as such.

OEM shocks can be had for significantly less than $400 per corner!

Think amayama.com or similar.

I can possibly get information for you as someone just purchased a swag of OEM suspension components (including all 4 shocks) and the total was just over $700 delivered.

Checked out amayama.com, and at $196USD per corner I'm looking at $922NZD plus shipping and 15% GST - call it an even $1200 plus springs and coilovers become a real possibility :whistling:

Checked out amayama.com, and at $196USD per corner I'm looking at $922NZD plus shipping and 15% GST - call it an even $1200 plus springs and coilovers become a real possibility :whistling:

Let me find out for you;there is a cheaper way.

I got Jamex lowered springs for my ARX and no problem with it. I bought it from Auckland.

Did you get them from the listing on TradeMe?

Let me find out for you;there is a cheaper way.

Don't rush, I don't need shocks. I just wanna lower my car and will use lowering springs unless they ruin my shock, at which stage I'll either replace or go coilovers.

The only way they will damage your shock is if you go too low, the actual shock will top out and crap around the top. I have seen this happen to an old set that I used 40mm lowered springs then cut 2 coils off, this was done for shits and giggles on an old cortina that we used as a paddock/dirt racer and we had it in that car for about a year and a half.

I lowered my 180 on Tein lowering springs and the shocks were fine for a couple of years. I finally replaced them with Bilstein coilovers for track work. I actually preferred the ride comfort on the road with just the lowering springs.

- Lance

Different car but still relevant, I had lowered King Springs with standard shocks on my R34 GTT for about a year and the ride quality was ... shocking (pardon the pun). Very crashy. The shocks also started leaking before long as they operated outside the designated area with the lowered springs. So in short, if you're going lower springs, get shorter shocks to match, to maintain ride quality.

I ended up going BC BR's with custom (softer) spring rates and difference with night and day, so much better than the OEM+King combo. I priced up a set of aftermarket shocks only, to go with the Kings, and they weren't much cheaper than the BC's...

Just my $0.02

  • Like 1

Keep the OEM shocks and get Lucas springs and you will be fine.

Ask a professional steering and suspension shop the part number, buy & install them your self and then take it back and get it aligned properly.

About $550 all up. $210 F/R pairs each and $85 for an alignment.

Ride remains almost the same (slightly stiffer) ride height less. Win/Win

Edited by Sinista32

No one has mentioned that if you're getting stiffer springs, the shocks aren't designed for them. You'll notice when going over a bump or a ditch it will be firmer on the compression but spring back quicker when the spring is released from its downward stroke. The standard shocks aren't designed to have that much force pushing on them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Honestly, for a daily I would gladly rock a Camry. The more disposable the better. People drive horribly out here and road conditions are awful.
    • Verify it's going into each of the 4 gears in normal acceleration, make sure the torque converter locks up over ~65-70 kph or so at low throttle opening. If you ease into the throttle at those speeds eventually you should get a "gear" between 3rd unlocked and 4th locked. It should downshift eventually if you floor it at 65 kph too. Get some Matic D ATF and drain the pan, check for signs of sadness in fluid and drain plug magnet. Top off to the correct level afterwards. If the transmission is worth saving you can drop the pan on a second drain and change the filter while you're at it. These are not complicated transmissions, at least compared to modern stuff.
    • A seat I find stupidly comfortable to sit in is the one in a friend's Merc Race Car. It even has the huge wings that wrap around your head. Best ever. Only issue is climbing through his scaffolding he put up in the doorway of the car... Ha ha ha. I sat in that seat for a couple of hours doing wiring. Another stupid comfortable seat I find, especially if my back is aching, is my OMP fixed back bucket seat too. I'll just sit on it when I'm exhausted in the garage sometimes to relax!
    • I just got off the phone with Dean from Vosta in Brisbane. They are the ones that do the replica seats and they have a shop full of seats for my to try out. Lovely guy.  I haven't decided whether to go genuine or replicas, I'm leaning towards Genuine at this point but who knows.  Also thinking the STRADIAs are the way to go VS the GIAS since they have a lower hip edge and would be easier to get into. Don't really like the idea of arm rests on the models to the right of this diagram either, maybe they can be removed?
    • From my own first hand experience, keeping power for a fun Street able skyline down at a responsive low 200 wheel KW, is the best. It makes it super drive able through the twisties, you're not just smashing mass wheel spin, or only able to open the throttle for a split second before being at absurd speeds. That said, plenty of people like being morons at more than double the speed limit on public roads and hence are happy with 600whp and seeing 200kmh fly up frequently and fast. Also, at that low 200, a GTR can still do a decent quarter mile, and with a bit of fancy  clutch work (foot, not the parts) can still beat many many cars in a traffic light gp, even in the wet.
×
×
  • Create New...