Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whilst not directly on topic - post 17 of the following link shows the different hp figures obtained using different shootout modes with the same car on the same day ( I knew turbo 4 cylinders were handicapped in shoot 4F :P ).

Notably, the second last dyno shows the effect on hp when the temp probe is placed near a heat source.

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/59178-power-differences-between-shootout-modes/?hl=dyno

Edited by juggernaut1

1/4 mile/ MPH for finding out how much usable power you have, as stated before dyno for tuning.

Is that still a reliable indication of power, even if my slug auto won't get off the line due to the stock stally stator?

Good friend of mine stopped posting outright power figures on his wall in his cell due to people not liking them reading lower than other shops, and I mean considerably lower, but like the big sign above his dyno reads, dynos lie, tracks don't . I'm yet to see a car that didn't run the mph on the strip that the dyno power figure suggested.

Power delivery. What you lost in peak power you may have gained everywhere else

Could be that. I don't have a dyno graph of the supposed 330wkw run on 98, but I do have a dyno graph of a 320wkw run on E85 (not the 260kw 98 run).
So less power on E85 than it supposedly had on 98, but its surely going to be faster.
I think there must have been some tweaking done of the ramp rate to achieve the 330wkw figure for 98.
This is the dyno graph of the E85 run, does it looks fast? It sure feels fast!
post-115803-0-24003800-1404958875_thumb.png

Feels faster or is faster?

Fair point, I've never been to the track so don't have any rock hard evidence.

Lets just say it definitely doesn't feel like it has had 70kw ripped from it!

Dynos are tuning tools. The absolute power and torque measurements are irrelevant unless being used for a comparison to a change being done to compare to a previous measurement on the same dyno but even then changes in the driveline can make it hard to compare.It is used solely for tuning to assess and optimize engine parameters by a skilled operator.

Example is my clubby that with a flash tune and diff gears measured 270rwkw and did 107mph.I installed cams with head work, hi stall and retune and measured 274rwkw and ran 112mph. Based on mph should be about 40rwkw difference. And based on mph it should be about the 285rwkw mark give or take. Moral of the story the tuner used the dyno to optimise the setup and mph told me how much power it really had. Hope this helps.

You can strap a car down to tight and lose power as well :(

Unfortunately there are many things that will effect dyno reads including tyre pressure

As others have said a dyno is just a tool used for tuning and a vague indication of power, that said a dyno isn't going to shop 100hp on a 1000hp car and vise versa, if you think the operator is fudging figures for what ever reason and not just a low reading dyno, I would be going else where

Mph is the best indication of power v weight and ET is an idication of setup

I always take my car to the 1/4 mile track after I do something to it ( power wise ) to see real life gains for both MPH and ET

An example for MPH, I not long ago had my 34 tuned and right after that I went to the strip, knowing it would run a 10 I rolled off the line and shifted to second then nailed it for the first 4 runs to get an idea of mph and ran consistent 131-132mph ranging from 11.6-12.5 et, last pass full noise from start 10.8@132mph so the start doesn't make much if any difference on mph unless your still turning tyres half track :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
×
×
  • Create New...