Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

so I've had BLITZ/BC coilovers for bit over a year not really liking the ride comfort on the street, it's not that bad on good roads but the roads I'm on are shit house and feel a coilover doesn't have the suspension travel that is needed for a street setup plus the springs are a little to hard and I'm Bit of a wuss and don't see the race track a lot.

So I am looking at going back to a shock and spring set up, I know bilstein set up is awesome but when said and done it's $1500+.

Is there any decent shock and spring setup for <$1100ish not looking to go retarded low just a nice legal setup for street driving with the odd drag/ track day?

Also has anyone heard of KYB special for street shocks would these be bad for Australian roads?

Thanks

Edited by dyl33

I use kyb standard shocks and king spring lows. Bit of shopping around got me the lot for under 800.

Sure I'd like it a bit lower but meh. I'm super happy for the price. Stiff but comfy enough on the street, and I ran the car at the track last weekend and loved it - bit of body roll but not as bad as I was expecting.

I use kyb standard shocks and king spring lows. Bit of shopping around got me the lot for under 800.

Sure I'd like it a bit lower but meh. I'm super happy for the price. Stiff but comfy enough on the street, and I ran the car at the track last weekend and loved it - bit of body roll but not as bad as I was expecting.

800$ good but I'm not really going for standard shocks unless I can't find anything else.

Yep most coilovers suck massively. Stock is shockingly soft though. I'd suggest the KYB and king springs or similar option

What KYB's would you suggest? What are other similar options?

The special streets? Ive only heard of them recently not a lot of info about them.

Yeah I've read that SK thread, definitely want monotube shocks but what options do I have with shocks? Can't find to much on the net don't really want to go to the local suspension mob.

What do you think would be a suitable shock and spring combo gtsboy? ( didn't want to pest you with anymore suspension PM's lol)

Well, I don't think KYB make any monos......so that kind of counts them out. I had KYBs in the rear of mine, put on at a similar time (10+ years ago) as when I put some Bilstein B6s in the front. Only put KYBs on because couldn't get the right Bilsteins at that moment and desperately needed to replace the original dampers. Was never really happy with the KYBs.

Anyway, fast forward to a couple of years ago and the KYBs start leaking and aren't working well. Fast forward to a few months ago when I put a full set of SK Bilstein B6s in, and the old front B6s are still in perfect workable condition and the KYBs are rooted.

So, for my money, it is Bilsteins. Preferably modded by SK. ~$1300 for a set of 4 customs with new bump stops. ~$400 for a set of Kings springs. Seems a lot of money, but it is soooo worth it.

I knew you were going to come at me with your bilsteins lol. I thought they were more but it's still $600 more then I'm wanting to spend.

But if I can't get monotubes then I'll have to get twin tube something's

Edited by dyl33

Just try and get bilsteins even if they are not the SK kit ones.
I got regular bilsteins from GSL Rallysport. They might have decent or possibly cheaper prices than the SK kit. I seem to recall i got mine for $1300 with kings(a few years ago now).

I have the SK ones and man, I don't think I'd do anything else. I went for the bees knees, and spent 4k+ and immediately after putting them on, realised they're the best upgrade for the car you can get. Way better than any engine mod for driving pleasure :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
×
×
  • Create New...