Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this is a really controversial topic but being new to owning a turbo car that turbo flutter sounds cool and makes an impression to me and my friends. I've lots of mixed replies when I've asked people how to get a flutter. One friend told me ''Buy an aftermarket BOV and make sure its plumb back!'' But then another friend told me "You can't buy plumb back BOV's and to take it to a workshop and ask them to put a line on it back to the air filters/AFM." Can you guys help me out?! I know some people will say '' Have fun rebuilding your engine in a few years. '' But it's a personal choice and i would really appreciate the help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445948-turbo-flutterplumb-back/
Share on other sites

It won't wreck the engine. Could potentially wreck the turbo which then might decide to fly through your engine. Being that the exhaust wheel is the weak wheel it's more likely to die but still

It may not happen. But still

Flutter works best with no BOV (flange blanked off) or any BOV with an adjustability that's set to very hard. Atmo BOV'S will screw up the way the car runs too and won't be recommended by anyone on here

  • Like 1

The flutter you speak of is compressor surge. That SUTUTUTU sound is because aftermarket bovs have STIFFER springs to prevent boost leak. The stiffer springs can also cause the bov to not open at all, causing the air to rush back throguh the turbo, giving that famous ricey VSHHHSUTUTUTUT.

If you want the flutter, take out your blow off valve, and put it in reverse, so the valve never opens, or just block off the BOV all together. You should now hear some significant fluttering.
If you want a louder flutter, install a POD filter, that shizz amplifies induction and flutter sounds. Want it even more louder? Get a steal intake pipe, then you'll hear it from down the street.

That being said, compressor surge sucks lol. And its a massive cop magnet. Provides no performance benefits, unless your BOV is leaking on high boost. If anything, it provides negative effects such as premature wear on your turbo.

^ why is that each time I put in the word "tttuuurrrkeyyy" it gets replaced with rubbish? lol

Flutters are sick.. if you don't like it - put a stock airbox on.. then when you're bored back off it goes :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...