Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this is a really controversial topic but being new to owning a turbo car that turbo flutter sounds cool and makes an impression to me and my friends. I've lots of mixed replies when I've asked people how to get a flutter. One friend told me ''Buy an aftermarket BOV and make sure its plumb back!'' But then another friend told me "You can't buy plumb back BOV's and to take it to a workshop and ask them to put a line on it back to the air filters/AFM." Can you guys help me out?! I know some people will say '' Have fun rebuilding your engine in a few years. '' But it's a personal choice and i would really appreciate the help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445948-turbo-flutterplumb-back/
Share on other sites

It won't wreck the engine. Could potentially wreck the turbo which then might decide to fly through your engine. Being that the exhaust wheel is the weak wheel it's more likely to die but still

It may not happen. But still

Flutter works best with no BOV (flange blanked off) or any BOV with an adjustability that's set to very hard. Atmo BOV'S will screw up the way the car runs too and won't be recommended by anyone on here

  • Like 1

The flutter you speak of is compressor surge. That SUTUTUTU sound is because aftermarket bovs have STIFFER springs to prevent boost leak. The stiffer springs can also cause the bov to not open at all, causing the air to rush back throguh the turbo, giving that famous ricey VSHHHSUTUTUTUT.

If you want the flutter, take out your blow off valve, and put it in reverse, so the valve never opens, or just block off the BOV all together. You should now hear some significant fluttering.
If you want a louder flutter, install a POD filter, that shizz amplifies induction and flutter sounds. Want it even more louder? Get a steal intake pipe, then you'll hear it from down the street.

That being said, compressor surge sucks lol. And its a massive cop magnet. Provides no performance benefits, unless your BOV is leaking on high boost. If anything, it provides negative effects such as premature wear on your turbo.

^ why is that each time I put in the word "tttuuurrrkeyyy" it gets replaced with rubbish? lol

Flutters are sick.. if you don't like it - put a stock airbox on.. then when you're bored back off it goes :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...