Jump to content
SAU Community

Bayside Blue R34 Gtr V-Spec

drag-on silvia
 Share

Recommended Posts

drag-on silvia Rising Star

drag-on silvia

Posted
Posted

So after many time wasters, tyre kickers and two serious buyers where the sale fell through for one reason or another, i have decided to start a new for sale thread. now here are some details on the car and below is a few things im considering.

2000 Nissan Skyline R34 GTR V- Spec
Vipec v44 ecu
Zietronix wideband with gauge
Mac valve boost controller
Blitz turbo timer
Cruise control

Precision 6262cea turbo bb .84 t4 split pulse

6Boost t4 split pulse manifold, ceramic coated
Turbosmart progate 50 plumbed back
4" dump pipe, 3.5" cat back
Nismo drop in fuel pump
Turbo smart fuel regulator
Siemens 80lb 875cc injectors
Proflow fuel rail
Turbosmart fuel pressure reg

JJR washer bottle / catch can

Exedy carbon D twin plate clutch
Dba 4000 front rotors
Pioneer AVIC DVD / NAVIGATION system with Bluetooth hands free phone
Focal polyglass 2-way speakers front and rear

Due to an operation that will see me off my feet for 3 months i am unable to complete the following myself until after then,

-the car is due for its 100000km major service,

-the catch can vents to atmosphere and

-the bov is to atmosphere as well (not roadworthy in qld)

if someone was interested in taking the car without the major service being done and with the bov and catch can still breathing to atmosphere i am willing to sell it cheaper.

for the car registered and roadworthy with the 100k service completed $50,000 neg

for the car without the 100k service done and no rwc $45,000 FIRM

Located in Townsville Queensland and will be sold with number plates (NME 34 Enemy 34)
Will only consider a swap with an 04 on 350z plus cash my way

please dont enquire if you dont have the money, are a time waster or a tyre kicker,

post-14389-0-14165600-1406086489_thumb.jpgpost-14389-0-09436500-1406086506_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445968-bayside-blue-r34-gtr-v-spec/
Share on other sites
James51 Contributor

James51

Posted
Posted

I've been gawking at this car on Carsales for a fair while now. Sorry to hear you're having trouble with selling. I'd be damn tempted if I could actually sell my car. Would be an epic trip back to the gold coast.

Out of Interest, what kind of power are you running on the 6262? I'm guessing the engines standard internals?

I know your add states only an 04+ 350z (and I'm sure there's fair reasoning to that), but I can't help but ask the question that I myself, hate being asked so much myself with trades, "You wouldn't be interested in a S15 1JZ would you?" The only reason I ask, is because they're both turn of the millennium, 6cyl, rwd sports cars, but I understand it's not everyone's cup of tea. I'm guessing coming from a GTR you're looking for something a little different.

drag-on silvia Rising Star

drag-on silvia

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hi james, i have been asked the power figure alot and my response has always been, if your seriously interested then contact me.

the reason for it is, i genuinely dont know. up here in townsville there are 2 awd dynos. one is owned / used by the local turbo shop for tuning diesels and wont let anyone else hire / use it and the second is owned by a tuning shop who also wont hire / let anyone else use it and i am not willing to let them tune my car. so my car was road tuned by a reputable local tuner. so thus the reason i have no dyno figures. the boost is set to 17psi, it was tuned with a zietronix widband through the vipec and with knock ears. yes the engine internals are standard.

the reason for the trade only with the 350z is ive always wanted to build a tt 350z, even before i bought the gtr. so thats why i wanted to only swap with a z.

im not completely against looking at other cars as a partial trade though i am looking to trade down to a cheaper car so want a fairly decent cash adjustment. not to mention i have been offered everything upto a h3 hummer to trade (wtf would i do with one of those??) so pretty much said that was it

James51 Contributor

James51

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the reply. I guess before I start considering the logistics of trading cars 1400km away, and the costs of travelling + cash your way, I'd need to know if my S15 floats your boat?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Silvia-2000/SSE-AD-2860916/?Cr=7&sdmvc=1

G0Z1LLAAAAA34 Rising Star

G0Z1LLAAAAA34

Posted
Posted

For single turbo setup GTRs, it is better to be more informative about the actual power figure. without power figure it means the car was not tuned. Not tuned means it will be harder to sell. Also 5k service bill?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • defari
      What Music Are You Listening To?

      By defari · Posted

    • defari
      What Music Are You Listening To?

      By defari · Posted

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyZDvZmvhik
    • GTSBoy
      Car Rotisserie

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You'd be better off digging a pit and standing under it to shoot it.
    • MBS206
      Troubleshooting - motor wont turn over

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The easiest way would to be ignore the oscilloscope, grab a multimeter, and make sure all the main connections are right. An oscilloscope will give 99.9% of even technicians so much grief, as they have no idea what things should even look like on an oscilloscope. Which is also even more likely for someone who's first ever major work on a car is this If the battery volts are dropping down so low, the LDV will reboot the ECU, when it does so, it will drop out the start circuit. If this is occuring, the battery voltage should also come back up. Give it a few tests, even simple ones like when you're attempting to crank it, measure voltage from the engine block, to the negative terminal. You might find you've got really bad connections somewhere. My guess is the "new" motor has something like a shit starter motor, at which point, you can swap the starter motor from the old motor, to the new motor. Before I did any of the above though, I'd 100% confirm the battery in the vehicle. Most jumper packs are absolutely useless, especially if a battery has a bad cell for example. Also the new modern "jump packs" if you don't know what you're doing with them, you won't even get them into high current stage. So go back to basics, check the battery, especially with a known good one as a replacement test. Check ALL the wiring, this includes where they're bolted onto the battery, and bolted onto the starter motor. Check all the earth straps are on. Measure your resistances across your earth straps. A good check here is to measure voltage across the earth straps while you're trying to crank it. If you're seeing voltage, you've got high resistance joints! Oh, and once you've done the above, check the battery over again.
    • MBS206
      Car Rotisserie

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For most rotisseries, as Duncan has mentioned, you really don't want a full car on it, you want a stripped shell. And imagine how many more weeks THAT is going to add to working on the car...
×
×
  • Create New...