Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I've had some issues starting the car and after replacing the cas I checked the timing and the car runs the best when the timing mark is way past the marks to the right.

The orange 0degree mark is also in between the white marks. I thought it was supposed to be at the end?

post-32397-0-07525200-1406371651_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446085-timing-question-is-it-way-out/
Share on other sites

Quite often, using the wire loop can give a reading twice the actual reading. Best results are obtained by going "old school" and using a plug lead inserted between #1 coil and the spark plug.

I'll have to give it a shot - it was running well this morning and I managed to adjust the timing so the mark was near the orange marking - which by counting the markings from left to right - I think is 20degrees - so it should be ok.

Turned the car off and tried to restart with no luck, and I cannot get it started again!

if that pic was taken with a timing light giving the illumination it looks way past the final mark which is wrong.

the most important thing is use a spark plug lead to extend the #1 (front of motor) coil pack onto the plug, and clip the timing light on there. Don't use the loop at the back of the engine it will give you bad readings.

Make sure your idle is close to 650RPM, as long as it's not above 1000RPM you should be close enough. Also, pull the bottom? plug off the throttle body and the ECU will go into fixed-timing mode so you can set the timing. If you skip this step the ECU actually varies the ignition timing to control the idle RPM which makes it impossible to set properly.

The orange mark is 0 degrees. there may be one white marker at -5, I can't remember. But you will have a series of white marks for 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 etc. 15 degrees will be the 3rd white mark to the right of the orange mark. the engine cover should have a mark on it at the 1 to 2 o'clock region looking from front of motor (ie "through" the radiator looking at the crank).

kinks - I've been using an inductive timing light, off the loop wire and also tried on the coil pack wire, with no difference. I guess inline might be the way to go as maybe it's showing a false light therefore indicating that timing is way off?????

The strange part about the markings is I have (w=white, o=orange)

w w w w o w w

Not the supposedly standard o w w w w w w

Hardest part is trying to figure out how to get it started again to even start looking at the timing!

Spark is good, fuel is in the rail, injectors are ticking/firing but still no start!

Hey all, after talking to the tuner the inductive timing lights get sort of a double signal and end up showing an incorrect reading.

So if you have one of these lights you open up the wire sensor slightly to weaken the signal - and hey presto timing is shown correctly!

Hey all, after talking to the tuner the inductive timing lights get sort of a double signal and end up showing an incorrect reading.

So if you have one of these lights you open up the wire sensor slightly to weaken the signal - and hey presto timing is shown correctly!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...