Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I've had some issues starting the car and after replacing the cas I checked the timing and the car runs the best when the timing mark is way past the marks to the right.

The orange 0degree mark is also in between the white marks. I thought it was supposed to be at the end?

post-32397-0-07525200-1406371651_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446085-timing-question-is-it-way-out/
Share on other sites

Quite often, using the wire loop can give a reading twice the actual reading. Best results are obtained by going "old school" and using a plug lead inserted between #1 coil and the spark plug.

I'll have to give it a shot - it was running well this morning and I managed to adjust the timing so the mark was near the orange marking - which by counting the markings from left to right - I think is 20degrees - so it should be ok.

Turned the car off and tried to restart with no luck, and I cannot get it started again!

if that pic was taken with a timing light giving the illumination it looks way past the final mark which is wrong.

the most important thing is use a spark plug lead to extend the #1 (front of motor) coil pack onto the plug, and clip the timing light on there. Don't use the loop at the back of the engine it will give you bad readings.

Make sure your idle is close to 650RPM, as long as it's not above 1000RPM you should be close enough. Also, pull the bottom? plug off the throttle body and the ECU will go into fixed-timing mode so you can set the timing. If you skip this step the ECU actually varies the ignition timing to control the idle RPM which makes it impossible to set properly.

The orange mark is 0 degrees. there may be one white marker at -5, I can't remember. But you will have a series of white marks for 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 etc. 15 degrees will be the 3rd white mark to the right of the orange mark. the engine cover should have a mark on it at the 1 to 2 o'clock region looking from front of motor (ie "through" the radiator looking at the crank).

kinks - I've been using an inductive timing light, off the loop wire and also tried on the coil pack wire, with no difference. I guess inline might be the way to go as maybe it's showing a false light therefore indicating that timing is way off?????

The strange part about the markings is I have (w=white, o=orange)

w w w w o w w

Not the supposedly standard o w w w w w w

Hardest part is trying to figure out how to get it started again to even start looking at the timing!

Spark is good, fuel is in the rail, injectors are ticking/firing but still no start!

Hey all, after talking to the tuner the inductive timing lights get sort of a double signal and end up showing an incorrect reading.

So if you have one of these lights you open up the wire sensor slightly to weaken the signal - and hey presto timing is shown correctly!

Hey all, after talking to the tuner the inductive timing lights get sort of a double signal and end up showing an incorrect reading.

So if you have one of these lights you open up the wire sensor slightly to weaken the signal - and hey presto timing is shown correctly!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...