Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

Ok I just went out n reduced all the acceleration pump settings in first column by 1.5 ms and increased decay time by 1, didnt make any difference to the bogging down on downshifts under load, sudden throttle input felt sharper I think, or maybe its my mind creating an illusion..

Sorry cant do mate, it wont help anyway, you have to be in car to feel it, and well the map tracer cells jump more than 5-6 cells down when it (bogging down losing power)happens, literally leaps downwards

Edited by rondofj

If it's dropping that hard it could be a mixture of TPS and AFM issues.

You really need a data logit kit connected to it.

There are many variables you need to look at which you're unable to do via the PowerFC controller alone.

Best to bring it back to the tuner or like I recommended get your hands on a data logit kit and post up your logs

haha..thats even harder - to find a datalogit kit for temp use. Only option is take it back to tuner..and get the same excuse that they couldnt find anything wrong/ didnt do anything to car.. you really think TPS could be an issue? - it does show varying voltage with varying pedal pressing, and is always within its usual voltage range..0.4- 4V or something, so thinking its alrite;

As far as I know, the only sensors that affect AF ratios are: CAS, AFM, TPS, O2 sensor, Coolant Temp sensor to ECU, MAP sensor - and probably in that order of importance. Probably in my case with PowerFC as some have said the O2 (switched off) and MAP sensor has almost bugger all effect.

Edited by rondofj

More of this coming this weekend - a more thorough test with a good 25-30psi in - hoping to find some leaks. Stay tuned.. Sorry bloody images got oriented wrong..

post-49401-0-52265100-1407200329_thumb.jpg

post-49401-0-23291200-1407200339_thumb.jpg

Edited by rondofj

considering the jump in cells i'd say either tps or afm. CAS does not directly affect a/f ratios....its governs spark.

its cheap and easy enough to change tps...i'd start there.

another consideration is maf reversion.

another consideration is maf reversion.

Yep - stock BOV is already blocked with a coke can plate to rule that out.. :). Something else I must mention, the idle goes 200rpms higher with the headlights switched off and lower with it switched on - alternator maybe, the belts checked tight enough - not sure if this issue is even relevant but. And TPS voltage is actually 0.41V at idle - might need 0.45V judging by other threads.

All this hunting around for a solution- my problem could even be a bad ground. Something that has been on the back of my mind. Any common ground problem areas/ which areas should I look for?

Edited by rondofj

It can still get reversion with the BOV blocked, when you shut the throttle the air built up by the turbo has to go somewhere and with no where else to go it goes backwards through the turbo to the AFM

That could also be causing and increasing the hesitation between gears

  • Like 1

fuarkkkkkkkkk

how have you wired your Z32?

Did you earth 1x cable to the chassis and 1x earth into the ECU?

If so.. there's one of your problem :)

both earths into the ECU (regardless whatever the interwebs says)

had the same issue with a S15.. each time the headlights were on.. the TP Load would increase as if there was more air going into the motor and AFRs dropped 1/2 a point... turns out with some hardcore googling.. DVS JEZ (legend) suggested to earth both together and into the ECU..

guess what? that solved the issue.

(yes I do tuning for fun).

fuarkkkkkkkkk

how have you wired your Z32?

Did you earth 1x cable to the chassis and 1x earth into the ECU?

Nope both wires joined together and onto ECU as per SAU tutorial. I was actually thinking of wiring one to chasis but decided no go. By bad ground I mean check the earths from ECU, battery and other problem spots, clean metal, sand-papered joints etc. Think I'm goin to perfect my TPS adjustment to 0.45V instead of 0.41V, idle is 200-300rpms higher with O2 feedback off. Do u also have to disconnect the O2 plug, mine isnt?

Disconnect your idle control valve disconnect your TPS disconnect your AAC then adjust the idle screw till its sitting flat bang at the idle prescribed by your PowerFC then plug everything back in

  • Like 1

Put up a new list of everything you have changed and checked. 6 pgs is a lot to read through.

Have you tried a recirc bov just for the hell of it? The symptoms you described. under load in a high gear, then changing to a lower one would make the power loss from over fuelling more pronounced.

It can still get reversion with the BOV blocked, when you shut the throttle the air built up by the turbo has to go somewhere and with no where else to go it goes backwards through the turbo to the AFM

That could also be causing and increasing the hesitation between gears

If you blocked off the bovs after the tune then this advice is spot on. So make a list of what have you changed after the tune would be a good start. I can't believe a tuner would let a car out like this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t taken them out of the cases yet    inside the box is this packaging which is pretty much like a massive blister pack 
    • Purchased a NC MX5 a while ago Basic suspension mods done, BC coils and Whiteline sway bars  New DBA calipers, discs and pads Added some 17 x 8 Konig Decagrams with 215/45 17 PS5's Added some typical NA bolt on's, i.e. full exhaust and intake  Added 0.5ltrs with a MZR2.5 swap, nice bump in torques  Found a detachable hard top which is locked in for a colour match with my local paint shop in Feb 25, this also includes some PDR as it has received a few love taps from parking in the local shops when in the hands of my Minister for War and Finances, me, I park nowhere near other cars and typically park on the street The little thing is awesome, I drive it everywhere, it handles like a dream whether I'm up it or just cruising  But now,  because I'm a idiot, I keep looking at turbo kits....... did I mention I'm a idiot Why is dose so appealing  All of the NA 2.5 glory, well.......until sometime in 2025 anyway....🤪  
    • I would not be surprised if you are the only person on earth that has the interest/desire to do that lol.  The Haltech base map is a really good starting point, the car will fire easily and drive very well, even on mild boost levels. To me, following your advice sounds like some sort of ancient Chinese water torcher lol (this is not an insult Josh, never change <3)
    • Those car show concepts from the 2000's and 2010's like the Floria and IDx were brilliant and should've gone ahead, at least one of them. But neither Honda nor Nissan are thinking about affordable performance any more, which is truly sad.  Even if Toyota's liquid hydrogen ICE development reaches the point where it's commercially viable and the infrastructure to support it, Honda/Nissan would have to wait until Toyota allow fee access to their patents to offer it with any smaller performance models they released to take advantage of it.  
    • A sporty manual RWD coupe with a IL4 Honda engine would only be a good thing I assume we won't see anything released for a few years though, unless informal talks and designs have been going on for a few years,  and due to the current, and future, emmisions and safety requirements, I assume anything "sporty" they would do would be at least some hybrid thingie And hopefully anything they are thinking of has nice lines, without lots of plastic and fake bits hanging off it like that horrendous FK8 that looked like it was designed by a 13 year old The other issue of course in the current market is cost, currently the type R is around $70k, a twin is around $50k Meh, I'm old and grumpy and would rather buy a older model car and waste my coin on that than buying anything currently available new  
×
×
  • Create New...