Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

My intake again - the black rubber breather hose on left from cam cover wraps under intake pipe before curling over it to the joiner/entry, courtesy of JEM's 3rd party fabricators :Dattachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1407278665.866575.jpg

That entry is not pointing at the compressor wheel, half the returned air wants to go back up the intake, through the afm, which will be the cells you are seeing jump.

Simply blocking off the bov won't stop this happening, as the boost will escape back through the turbo compressor, essentially doing the same thing.

He has already changed ecu once for no gain (really it went backwards) all for the sake of not modifying the bov return

A map based ecu will fix it for good though!

We seem to be going in circles here. :P

hahhaah as much as I like AFM ECUs they're a pain in the arse :)

thus, I myself have gone to a MAP ECU..

you can however run atmospheric BOV on a PowerFC and lower the F/C RPM and lean out cells on rows 1~3 to stop it going all rich & shit.. I've done it before with my old R33 and was able to stop it from bogging down and shit

Mount Z32 on cooler piping like Stao did once? Not a fan of high boost blowing at the delicate sensor.. :S And screw changing ecu again - no farrkin way haha.... $2000 for pretty much no gain just hopefully no bogging down on gearchanges.

You keep talking about major changes that will require retuning, when all you probably need is to angle the bov return a little towards the compressor.

Did the fabricator say he would stab you if you changed it? Why haven't you looked at it after the 100's of times it's been suggested?

I dont even know whos the fabricator lol.. And - this issue has only been happening with the recent switch to the powerfc this year.. The fact that the piping doesnt look convincingly bad has somewhat held me from doing it too..

And will this solve my intermittent rough running/ lack of power and 20-21L/100kms fuel economy? Don't think so :unsure:

Edited by rondofj

I have made many beautiful intakes, some of which were fail. It takes a fair imagination to design a perfect intake in your head and have it work first time off the bat. Bov returns are the hardest to get right, and they change with some bov's and setups, also depending on the boost you run.

I would be asking for the fabricator's details, as it's in his best interests to get it right and learn from his mistakes. Otherwise I can send you one of my intakes to try out... ;)

If some one connect the vacumn line incorrectly on the pump, then you will get 20L/100kms cause instead of allowing only vapour from the tank to the manifold, raw fuel gets sucked thru

under vacumn conditions.

Who did the pump?

If you were in Sydney then you do my pipe! haha..well I can't try out your pipe, no guarantees it would fit - its one of those 'on-site' jobs aye

If some one connect the vacumn line incorrectly on the pump, then you will get 20L/100kms cause instead of allowing only vapour from the tank to the manifold, raw fuel gets sucked thru

under vacumn conditions.

Who did the pump?

I did -3 years ago, and yeah economy has always been crap since a long long time, with the Nistune as well, dont know exactly since when. Good point - I didnt even know about the vacuum line just the fuel return and supply line - worth having a look.. What is this vacuum line and does it run from intake manifold?

If you were in Sydney then you do my pipe! haha..well I can't try out your pipe, no guarantees it would fit - its one of those 'on-site' jobs aye

I bought one and it bolted up to my stock airbox going to a 4" snout of a Hypergear SS2.

However, I liked pigeons and tuuurrkeeys more so I installed a pod filter to attract slarts & cops.

  • Like 2

I did -3 years ago, and yeah economy has always been crap since a long long time, with the Nistune as well, dont know exactly since when. Good point - I didnt even know about the vacuum line just the fuel return and supply line - worth having a look.. What is this vacuum line and does it run from intake manifold?

Its easy to mix them up, I found this on my falcon, it runs from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister then under vacumn a valve allows the vapour into the manifold to be burnt. Not exactly

sure on the skyline but it would be same or similar. The vacumn line outlet on the pump is designed to not let fuel though, mine wasn't on that outlet, resulted in 20L/100km and the manifold

was soaking with raw fuel, on deceleration the motor choked and lost power til the fuel was cleared out of the manifold.

  • Like 1

OK,

So I return to this after quite a few posts, but based on most recent feedback from Ron and various of the replies since I see the following as being the most likely scenario.

1) Sudden pulse of AFM signal upward with consequent increase in ECU load signal up 5 or 6 cells definitely implies it's a reversion problem. Blocked BOV will of course cause that - and you have seen it occur with blocked BOV. Wrong BOV return design will also cause it, and you have seen it with the BOV connected. Therefore....

2) BOV return is not right. The connection from the cam cover hose doesn't matter - only the angle of the BOV return does. I suggest further speculation on the cause of the hesitation problem should be put on hold until someone remakes the BOV return.

3) High fuel consumption. As I see it your coolant temperature is 10 degrees too cold and that could easily cause the ECU to add a bunch of enrichment - especially if it was at the correct temperature while it was being tuned. This should be the work of 5 minutes for Yavuz to look into and report on what the ECU is doing. And to fix it might take only as much as another 5 minutes if it needs fixing in the tune or maybe 30 minutes if you need the thermostat changed.

4) High fuel consumption. The tank breather situation is a bit special on Neos anyway. The stock ECU has a whole bunch of maps (only recently uncovered and correctly identified by Matt at Nistune) around the emissions purge control logic. There is a solenoid valve that is only allowed to open under certain conditions to allow the vapours to be purged. If the PFC doesn't do this properly and/or there has been a physical f**k up of the system with various works (like FFP installations) then perhaps there is an avenue here for fuel consumption to go high. But I would imagine that if the ECU was properly running closed loop and most miles were done under cruisey closed loop conditions then it shouldn't be as bad as Ron reports.

5) High fuel consumption. A f**ked O2 sensor will do this to you. Replace it or plan to live without it. Choose one.

As to Yavuz's statement of the load jump causing R&R - well, it's not R&R because there's no such thing in a PFC unless it is deliberately tuned that way (ie the tuner makes the top end of the maps as mentally retarded as Nissan did!). But I suppose functionally it is equivalent to R&R if those load cells add a lot of fuel and have less timing. Terminology doesn't really matter - I think we can be sure that it's a reversion problem and that you need to fix the reversion!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.
    • It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again...   I'm hoping the latter...
    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
×
×
  • Create New...